Day 88
Tufnell Park - Turnham Green - Turnpike Lane
So here it is - the final day of the letter 'T'. The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the trains (most usefully) are running, and all is right with the world.
Well, obviously there's a lot that isn't particularly right with the world, but since the lunatics do seem rather to have taken over the asylum in recent years, I don't think there's much I can do about that. I'll just get on with a bit more of my innocuous tube travelling and keep out of everyone's way...
***
I start with a journey north on the Northern Line to Tufnell Park.
 |
| Tufnell Park |
This is a name that, for me, has long been associated with the following pithy description - taken from the opening lines of the play Greek by Steven Berkoff:
"So, I was spawned in Tufnell Park that's no more than a stone's throw from the Angel / a monkey's fart from Tottenham or a bolt of phlegm from Stamford Hill / it's a cesspit, right... a scum-hole dense with the drabs who prop up corner pubs..."
Nice!
And - from the first impressions I get as I emerge from the tube station - the rather 'thuggish' description above is one I don't think it really deserves.
Admittedly, the play was first performed in 1980, when things may have been very different around here - and Berkoff has, of course, always focussed on the 'grittier' side of life...
But it actually seems quite pleasant here...
The station is right on the border between the two boroughs of Camden and Islington - neither of which are exactly 'down-market' - and the elaborate architecture of the 'Boston' Music Room marks the dividing point. To the left of it is Dartmouth Hill Road, in Camden, and to the right, Junction Road in Islington.
I wander first up Fortress Road - on the Camden side - which contains a comprehensive selection of artisan bakers, independent butchers and fishmongers, coffee shops, restaurants and other divers emporia - the 'village' feel in evidence again.
The other streets are mainly residential and are lined with moderately grand Edwardian terraces, and plenty of trees along the pavements.
It's all very picturesque and I'm not surprised that the area has attracted a number of well-known faces. Among those who live (or have lived) in the area are labour leader Jeremy Corbyn, actors Christopher Lee, Bill Nighy, Cathy Tyson, Damien Lewis and Helen McCrory, comedian Charlie Higson and - perhaps more disturbingly - infamous wife-murderer Dr. Crippen.
As I wander eastwards into Islington, along Tufnell Park Road, I spot an unusual sign on one of the otherwise unexceptional side-streets.
I'm used to seeing Blue Plaques, War Memorials and other inscriptions to the late lamented of the city - but the A4 sized sign commemorating Henry L. Barber - 'a man who lived in this street and lost his life in the First World War' - seems an unusually personal memorial.
It seems to have been issued by the Borough of Islington itself, rather than put up by a relative of the deceased, but surely they can't be commemorating each person individually? There must be thousands of people from this area who died in that war - or was Mr Barber the only one who could be identified?
Pleasant though the area is, it's also relatively self-contained, and after only a few more minutes wandering I feel like I've exhausted the area immediately surrounding the station - so I move on to my next destination, which in many ways is equally, if not more, welcoming.
***
Turnham Green is one of the series of stations running parallel to the Chiswick High Road between Hammersmith and Acton . It's named - you won't be surprised to hear - after a patch of open land, on - or near - which a Civil War battle took place in 1642.
What might surprise you a little more is that the patch of open land in question is neither of the two green spaces immediately visible as you leave the station entrance.
These are called Acton Green Common (to the north of the railway) and Chiswick Common (to the south). The area immediately to the north of the station is called Bedford Park (and was the first ever Garden Suburb, according to a sign opposite the station) and to the south of course is Chiswick High Road.
Any of which would have made a far more sensible name for this particular station than the one it was given, since Turnham Green itself is actually several hundred metres to the west of here, and is much closer to Chiswick Park Station than this one.
Perhaps, you might hypothesise to yourself, Chiswick Park station was originally called 'Turnham Green' and - when it was given (for whatever reason) its new name - the locals were so loath to let the site of the battle go un-commemorated, that they insisted the name be preserved, even if it meant attaching it to a station some distance away?
But no - Chiswick Park station, which actually sits closer to the site of the battle, was originally called Acton Green.
Go figure.
Anyway, I'll wander along to the actual Turnham Green in a little while, but first I'll explore the area around the station a little more.
Just around the corner is a pub called the Tabard, which - for me at least - is of interest because it is also the home of a well-respected pub theatre.
The pub was built in 1880 and the theatre opened just over 100 years later in 1985. It holds 96 people - so is an intimate space - and often hosts stand-up comedy as well as theatre, including gigs by Al Murray, Harry Hill and Russell Brand.
Heading south from the station I pass the two greens I mentioned earlier.
On one of them - as if things weren't confusing enough - is a notice giving the history of the battle that took place on the other green around the corner.
Again - I'll come to that in a moment...
The station is at the top of a short street called Turnham Green Terrace, which - like Fortress Road in Tufnell Park - is a bustling collection of independent shops and eateries, and which leads in turn to the much busier and even more full of shops, Chiswick High Road.
If it's small artisan shops you're after, then Turnham Green Terrace is the place, whereas Chiswick High Road is the home of the larger chains such as M&S, Waitrose, Waterstones, Pizza Express and several pubs.
Across the road from the junction with Turnham Green Terrace, on the High Road, is a statue of Chiswick's most famous former resident - the artist William Hogarth.
He lived pretty much due south of here in a cottage just to the west of what is now known as the Hogarth Roundabout on the A4 - between 1749 and his death in 1764. His house is preserved as a museum.
And so, eventually, after a ten minute walk, I come at last to Turnham Green itself.
This is really the heart of Chiswick, with the High Road running along its northern edge, and the Town Hall to the south of it. In the centre is a large church, designed by George Gilbert Scott, called Christ Church.
The sunbathers are out in force today, and the sense of village life that I so often take pleasure in finding in London is all around me.
The Battle of Turnham Green was actually more of a Mexican stand-off than a serious blood-letting, with 24,000 Parliamentarian troops simply blocking the advance of the 13,000 Royalist troops who had been trying to march on London.
After a brief flurry of fighting - which resulted in a death toll of less than 50 - the Royalists withdrew back up towards Oxford, missing their one chance to take London, and allowing the Civil War to continue for several more years.
Since the sun is out and I have plenty of choice of greenery on which to sit and enjoy it, I pick up a sandwich and indulge in a quick picnic lunch before heading off once more northwards to my final destination of the day.
***
Unfortunately - although this is again a station near a green, and with a busy High Street alongside it full of shops and shoppers - the area around Turnpike Lane station has dropped a rung or two down the social scale compared with the previous two locales I've visited today.
Here the bakery is a Greggs, rather than an independent one, and the other shops on the High Road seem to be variations on the 'everything for a pound' theme.
The station is named after the road it sits on - heading west from here - which in turn was named after a toll-gate that used to be in the area (a 'turnpike' is a turnstile). The area is in the Borough of Haringey, and to the north are Wood Green and Bounds Green - where the infamous 'gun' incident occurred all that time ago - so I'm not entirely surprised at the rather dilapidated feel to the place.
To the south is the curiously pluralised street called Green Lanes, the bottom of which I visited some time ago when I visited the Overground station of the same name, and next to this is Turnpike Lane's version of the village green into which I head next.
I'm intrigued by the huge sculpted acorns on the pavement outside the entrance to the Green, which look as if they've been placed here as decorative seats for the benefit of passers-by. However attractive the seats might be, I just can't imagine anyone wanting to stop and sit on one of them in the middle of the pavement by a busy crossroads, complete with heavy traffic and constant flow of pedestrians, when they could just as easily walk a few yards into the much pleasanter park area next to it.
The park is an area of former grazing land called Duckett's Common, - though it isn't especially large as 'commons' go - it does offer plenty of greenery, as well as exercise equipment and several basketball courts in which the local school-kids while away their lunch hour.
There's a little plaque in the park, giving its history, which tells me that the name comes from one Laurence Duket, a 13th Century landowner who was descended from one of the knights who came over with William the Conqueror.
There are plenty of people enjoying the open space and relaxing around the park - both on and off the benches provided.
But somehow it's not got quite the same relaxing feel as Turnham Green had. Whereas there I could picture lazy afternoons of cricket, dog walking and picnics - here my imagination strays more towards drug-dealing and late night muggings.
I realise I'm perhaps biased against the whole Haringey area, given my past experience, but there's definitely something not especially welcoming about the place.
All in all it's not the most inspiring way to end my day, or indeed to round off the letter 'T', but at least it's another letter crossed off the list, and one step closer to the end of my long journey.
 |
| Camden to the left of me, Islington to the right... |
 |
| Neighbouring boroughs... |
The other streets are mainly residential and are lined with moderately grand Edwardian terraces, and plenty of trees along the pavements.
 |
| Into Islington... |
It's all very picturesque and I'm not surprised that the area has attracted a number of well-known faces. Among those who live (or have lived) in the area are labour leader Jeremy Corbyn, actors Christopher Lee, Bill Nighy, Cathy Tyson, Damien Lewis and Helen McCrory, comedian Charlie Higson and - perhaps more disturbingly - infamous wife-murderer Dr. Crippen.
As I wander eastwards into Islington, along Tufnell Park Road, I spot an unusual sign on one of the otherwise unexceptional side-streets.
 |
| Lest we forget... |
I'm used to seeing Blue Plaques, War Memorials and other inscriptions to the late lamented of the city - but the A4 sized sign commemorating Henry L. Barber - 'a man who lived in this street and lost his life in the First World War' - seems an unusually personal memorial.
It seems to have been issued by the Borough of Islington itself, rather than put up by a relative of the deceased, but surely they can't be commemorating each person individually? There must be thousands of people from this area who died in that war - or was Mr Barber the only one who could be identified?
Pleasant though the area is, it's also relatively self-contained, and after only a few more minutes wandering I feel like I've exhausted the area immediately surrounding the station - so I move on to my next destination, which in many ways is equally, if not more, welcoming.
***
Turnham Green is one of the series of stations running parallel to the Chiswick High Road between Hammersmith and Acton . It's named - you won't be surprised to hear - after a patch of open land, on - or near - which a Civil War battle took place in 1642.
What might surprise you a little more is that the patch of open land in question is neither of the two green spaces immediately visible as you leave the station entrance.
 |
| Turnham Green station |
 |
| Welcome to Bedford Park |
These are called Acton Green Common (to the north of the railway) and Chiswick Common (to the south). The area immediately to the north of the station is called Bedford Park (and was the first ever Garden Suburb, according to a sign opposite the station) and to the south of course is Chiswick High Road.
Any of which would have made a far more sensible name for this particular station than the one it was given, since Turnham Green itself is actually several hundred metres to the west of here, and is much closer to Chiswick Park Station than this one.
Perhaps, you might hypothesise to yourself, Chiswick Park station was originally called 'Turnham Green' and - when it was given (for whatever reason) its new name - the locals were so loath to let the site of the battle go un-commemorated, that they insisted the name be preserved, even if it meant attaching it to a station some distance away?
But no - Chiswick Park station, which actually sits closer to the site of the battle, was originally called Acton Green.
Go figure.
Anyway, I'll wander along to the actual Turnham Green in a little while, but first I'll explore the area around the station a little more.
Just around the corner is a pub called the Tabard, which - for me at least - is of interest because it is also the home of a well-respected pub theatre.
 |
| The Tabard |
The pub was built in 1880 and the theatre opened just over 100 years later in 1985. It holds 96 people - so is an intimate space - and often hosts stand-up comedy as well as theatre, including gigs by Al Murray, Harry Hill and Russell Brand.
Heading south from the station I pass the two greens I mentioned earlier.
On one of them - as if things weren't confusing enough - is a notice giving the history of the battle that took place on the other green around the corner.
 |
| Battle of Turnham Green... ...which didn't happen here. |
Again - I'll come to that in a moment...
The station is at the top of a short street called Turnham Green Terrace, which - like Fortress Road in Tufnell Park - is a bustling collection of independent shops and eateries, and which leads in turn to the much busier and even more full of shops, Chiswick High Road.
 |
| Turnham Green Terrace |
If it's small artisan shops you're after, then Turnham Green Terrace is the place, whereas Chiswick High Road is the home of the larger chains such as M&S, Waitrose, Waterstones, Pizza Express and several pubs.
 |
| Chiswick High Road |
Across the road from the junction with Turnham Green Terrace, on the High Road, is a statue of Chiswick's most famous former resident - the artist William Hogarth.
He lived pretty much due south of here in a cottage just to the west of what is now known as the Hogarth Roundabout on the A4 - between 1749 and his death in 1764. His house is preserved as a museum.
And so, eventually, after a ten minute walk, I come at last to Turnham Green itself.
 |
| Turnham Green |
This is really the heart of Chiswick, with the High Road running along its northern edge, and the Town Hall to the south of it. In the centre is a large church, designed by George Gilbert Scott, called Christ Church.
The sunbathers are out in force today, and the sense of village life that I so often take pleasure in finding in London is all around me.
The Battle of Turnham Green was actually more of a Mexican stand-off than a serious blood-letting, with 24,000 Parliamentarian troops simply blocking the advance of the 13,000 Royalist troops who had been trying to march on London.
After a brief flurry of fighting - which resulted in a death toll of less than 50 - the Royalists withdrew back up towards Oxford, missing their one chance to take London, and allowing the Civil War to continue for several more years.
 |
| Christ Church, Turnham Green |
Since the sun is out and I have plenty of choice of greenery on which to sit and enjoy it, I pick up a sandwich and indulge in a quick picnic lunch before heading off once more northwards to my final destination of the day.
***
Unfortunately - although this is again a station near a green, and with a busy High Street alongside it full of shops and shoppers - the area around Turnpike Lane station has dropped a rung or two down the social scale compared with the previous two locales I've visited today.
 |
| Turnpike Lane |
Here the bakery is a Greggs, rather than an independent one, and the other shops on the High Road seem to be variations on the 'everything for a pound' theme.
 |
| High Road |
To the south is the curiously pluralised street called Green Lanes, the bottom of which I visited some time ago when I visited the Overground station of the same name, and next to this is Turnpike Lane's version of the village green into which I head next.
I'm intrigued by the huge sculpted acorns on the pavement outside the entrance to the Green, which look as if they've been placed here as decorative seats for the benefit of passers-by. However attractive the seats might be, I just can't imagine anyone wanting to stop and sit on one of them in the middle of the pavement by a busy crossroads, complete with heavy traffic and constant flow of pedestrians, when they could just as easily walk a few yards into the much pleasanter park area next to it.
 |
| You should see the size of the squirrels... |
The park is an area of former grazing land called Duckett's Common, - though it isn't especially large as 'commons' go - it does offer plenty of greenery, as well as exercise equipment and several basketball courts in which the local school-kids while away their lunch hour.
 |
| Duckett's Common |
 |
| A little background reading |
There are plenty of people enjoying the open space and relaxing around the park - both on and off the benches provided.
 |
| Sit on the tree-trunk benches - or just on the grass. |
But somehow it's not got quite the same relaxing feel as Turnham Green had. Whereas there I could picture lazy afternoons of cricket, dog walking and picnics - here my imagination strays more towards drug-dealing and late night muggings.
I realise I'm perhaps biased against the whole Haringey area, given my past experience, but there's definitely something not especially welcoming about the place.
All in all it's not the most inspiring way to end my day, or indeed to round off the letter 'T', but at least it's another letter crossed off the list, and one step closer to the end of my long journey.
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