Day 96
West India Quay - West Kensington - Westminster
Back on my travels after a short break taking in the delights of the Edinburgh Festival (and thereby avoiding what seems to have been a period of torrential rainfall in London) I ease myself back into the final stages of this journey with a relatively straightforward day's Wombling...
My first stop is West India Quay - a station on the DLR line, and one stop north of Canary Wharf.
In fact the two stations are less than 200m apart (the shortest distance between any two stations on the London Underground and DLR network) and, were it not for the large body of water (North Dock) that lies between them at ground level, it might well be quicker to walk, than to waste time ascending to the overhead platforms, waiting for trains, and so on.
The train journey itself takes all of 30 seconds, so I'm soon alighting at the north side of the dock.
This is North Dock - the northern most of the three docks which together form the West India Docks.
Like at many of London's docks, the gleaming modern skyscrapers stand beside remnants of the past, such as the cranes used to unload the goods from far off lands (in this case mainly Rum and Sugar) and the old warehouse buildings, now converted to flats, offices and restaurants.
This is a quieter part of the whole Canary Wharf / Isle of Dogs business district and is pretty much deserted when I arrive mid-morning. Only the restaurants and street-food stalls show any sign of life as they prepare for what they presumably hope is going to be a lunch-time rush.
At the western end of the dock are two points of interest.
The first of these is 'St. Peter's Barge' - which is apparently London's only floating church.
At first I assume that this is a hangover from the dock's former hey-days, when the 'rough and ready' stevedores would be cajoled into spending at least some of their time hearing from the 'Good Book', rather than drinking their wages away in the nearest pub.
However, it seems this church has only been here since 2003 - long after the docks were redeveloped into the financial district that flourishes here today - so it must be the many Bankers and Brokers whose souls are in need of redemption....
They may have a point...
The second point of interest is the Museum of London Docklands, just next to the floating church.
This occupies one of the former warehouses, and consists of three floors of exhibits offering a pretty comprehensive history of the development of the docks.
It's free to enter, so I feel duty-bound to have a look around it on your behalf, and it certainly has a lot to tell you - if you happen to be interested in Docklands life.
Having spent quite a bit of time travelling around the docks on this journey, and having diligently researched the different areas I've visited, I've already learned a lot of the history on offer here.
Nevertheless, it's an interesting place to visit and does, of course, condense it all into one building, rather than requiring you to spend week after week travelling from station to station (I mean, who'd be silly enough to do that?).
Here then, are a few examples of what you can find in the museum.
Back outside I take a last few photos.
There are one or two more people about now, though it's still very quiet compared with the area outside Canary Wharf station.
I decide to walk back to Canary Wharf via the footbridge across the Dock, partly to see how long it takes (about five minutes) and partly to get a photo of a DLR train making the short journey between the two stations.
I had idly wondered whether the distance was short enough that the back end of the train would still be in Canary Wharf as its front end entered West India Quay - but this isn't the case. In fact the trains are only about half as long as the 199m between the stations - though this still seems a faintly ridiculous distance to travel via train.
***
Next on my list is West Kensington, which despite the connotations of the latter part of its name, is a fairly non-descript station in an equally uninspiring part of London.
The station lies between Earl's Court and Barons Court on the District Line, and - with Hammersmith to the west of the latter - suffers from being between two much busier shopping areas.
It's also on the main A4 Talgarth Road, which means that heavy traffic is constantly passing by - but rarely stopping.
Immediately to the right of the station as you emerge from it is a pub styling itself 'The Famous 3 Kings'.
But, on the off-chance that its "fame" may somehow not as yet have reached your ears, I can inform you (thanks to a commemorative mural across the road) that the pub used to be known as The Nashville Room and that it was a live music venue.
Among those who (improbably perhaps, given the image conjured up by the word 'Nashville') played in the pub in their formative years are such well-known bands as the Sex Pistols and Joy Division, as well as the Police and U2.
The road heading south from the A4 is North End Road, and this contains a fairly standard assortment of shops and eateries - though nothing to set the heart racing.
To the west of the station, and running parallel to the A4, are the tracks of both the District and Piccadilly Lines. At this point along their adjacent course into central London they separate, and the Piccadilly Line drops below ground for the first time, as can be seen from a vantage point on one of the back streets.
One other claim to fame the area does have is that it was home to a certain young law student during the latter part of the 19th Century.
The shy, tongue-tied, vegetarian, Hindu barrister who lived at number 20, Baron's Court Road, was called Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi - and would go on to become the one of the world's most inspirational leaders, and most famous advocates of non-violent protest.
As you no doubt already know - the title 'Mahatma' (meaning 'Great Soul' or 'Venerable') was bestowed upon him in later life, and though almost taking the place of his given first name, it was a title he himself felt embarrassed by, according to his autobiography.
But that's just about all there is to see here.
I head back to the station, and am waiting for my train back into central London, when I notice, on the opposite platform, something I must have missed on my arrival.
It's a small patch of garden, obviously tended by the station employees, and offering a little splash of greenery in an otherwise dull, grey environment.
I've seen a few of these 'Station Gardens' on my travels, and they always give me a brief but welcome frisson of pleasure when I encounter them. A lot of time and effort has clearly gone into creating and maintaining this little plot, and I can't think of many other workplaces where such a thing would happen, let alone be encouraged.
And so, in a slightly more upbeat mood than when I arrived, I set off from West Kensington to my final (and by far-and-away most landmark-laden) stop of the day.
***
Westminster packs in so many tourist attractions you'd be forgiven for thinking that Walt Disney had created it as some kind of "Westminster World of Adventures".
What with Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Downing Street, Whitehall, Parliament Square - not to mention Westminster Bridge and the river - it's one of the busiest places in London all year round.
Of course, as any school-child knows, the first item on that list isn't actually a tourist attraction - in the sense of being something you can have your photo taken in front of - at all.
The name Big Ben refers to the great bell of the clock inside the tower rather than the tower itself, though this has been extended to refer to the whole clock tower for so long and by so many people that it seems churlish to continue to correct the misapprehension.
In fact, I'd go further, and say that the tower should, in fact, be officially and definitively renamed Big Ben at the earliest opportunity, in order to put an end to the confusion once and for all.
This is unlikely to happen however, as the tower (previously simply called the Clock Tower) was officially renamed the Elizabeth Tower in 2012 to celebrate the queen's Diamond Jubilee.
Not that anyone's going to take any notice of that, of course, and Big Ben it will continue to be...
I'll come back to the Palace of Westminster (aka the Houses of Parliament), which adjoins the tower, shortly. Firstly though, I cross the road to the large square patch of grass opposite - Parliament Square - on which (as well as a multitude of tourists) can be found various statues of the Great and Good of British Political History.
The first, and most imposing, figure is that of Winston Churchill.
Statesman, orator, inspirational war-time leader and - let's face it - grumpy looking bugger, he stands scowling at Parliament as if he can't quite believe the mess people have made of the place since he shuffled off this mortal coil fifty-odd years ago. And many would say he'd be entirely justified in such thoughts.
A little way up from Churchill is another former Prime Minister - David Lloyd George.
He was Prime Minister during the first war, and - like Churchill - was generally regarded as a strong leader during those horrific years. However, also like Churchill, once war was over his popularity went into decline and he was out of office by 1922.
Two further inspirational figures - one of whom we've come across already today on our travels - are Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela.
These two both led their people out from under the oppressive regimes that had blighted their respective countries, and are deservedly commemorated in this 'cradle of democracy'.
To the south of Parliament Square, and to the west of the Houses of Parliament, is Westminster Abbey - perhaps the most famous London church after St. Paul's Cathedral.
This is the place where Kings and Queens are crowned, where Royal Weddings have been celebrated, and where the bones of Monarchs and Musicians, Scientists and Soldiers, Politicians and Poets, Authors, Architects and even (so there's hope for me yet) Actors are interred.
As was the case with St. Paul's Cathedral, despite having lived in London for many years, I've never actually been inside the Abbey, and had hoped to do so today.
However, though this would be perfectly possible were I to fork out the £22 entrance fee, I would not - according to the many signs attached to the railings surrounding it - be allowed to take any photos within the Abbey.
Since all I could give you, therefore, would be a list of facts and figures obtainable from any reputable internet-based encyclopaedia, I'll say nothing more and simply suggest that both you and I get our acts together and make the effort to visit the place ourselves one day.
To the north of Parliament Square is Whitehall - the home of many a government department and location of the Cenotaph, the national war memorial.
A short way along from this and leading off to the west is perhaps the most famous street in London: Downing Street - the home of the Prime Minister of Great Britain.
There are, as usual, a swarm of tourists brandishing their selfie-sticks in front of the heavily-guarded gates to Downing Street, but I'm mildly surprised to see - in a brief opening of the gates - the following scene...
It appears to be a couple of people having their photo taken, tourist-style, in front of - and let me very clear about this - the Prime Minister's front door. Not only that, but the person taking the photo is the policeman whose duty it is to guard said door, and prevent nefarious individuals getting inside and making mischief (I refrain from commenting on the idea that he is actually there to prevent nefarious individuals getting out of Number 10 and making mischief - as, if this is his role, he has been singularly unsuccessful at it).
Of course, right now our various political leaders are all on their summer holidays, so perhaps it's a case of 'while the cat's away...'
Which brings us back to the Houses of Parliament.
Currently on their summer recess, the MPs have got the builders in while they're away, and the clock tower is having a bit of a make-over - causing some not inconsiderable controversy.
The major bone of contention (other than the inevitable complaints about how much the tax-payer will have to cough up for it all) is that the chimes of Big Ben have been silenced for the foreseeable future while the work is carried out, in order to prevent any damage to the hearing of the people doing the refurbishment.
There are those who condemn this as the epitome of 'health-and-safety-gone-mad-ness', while others tear their hair out in frustration at all this fuss and bother over what is, at the end of the day, only a big clock.
I have to say I fall more readily into the latter camp - not least because I'm sure the anti health and safety brigade will be the first to condemn the government if anyone suffers permanent deafness by being unexpectedly 'bonged' by Big Ben.
Like Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament are open to the public for guided tours, and this is one place I have actually visited before. However (also like Westminster Abbey), photography is pretty restricted within the building, and I would urge you to visit it yourself should you be interested in its inner workings.
The Houses of Parliament sit on the riverside, by Westminster Bridge, which was the scene earlier this year of one of the many recent terror attacks involving cars being driven into innocent pedestrians.
I walk some way across the bridge - where there are now crash barriers in place - to take a photo of the river-side view of Westminster, and am glad to see that here, like the rest of the area surrounding the station, tourism is alive and well and undaunted by past events.
And that completes today's journey.
Tune in next time for more W-based adventures!
My first stop is West India Quay - a station on the DLR line, and one stop north of Canary Wharf.
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| West India Quay |
In fact the two stations are less than 200m apart (the shortest distance between any two stations on the London Underground and DLR network) and, were it not for the large body of water (North Dock) that lies between them at ground level, it might well be quicker to walk, than to waste time ascending to the overhead platforms, waiting for trains, and so on.
 |
| Old meets new... |
The train journey itself takes all of 30 seconds, so I'm soon alighting at the north side of the dock.
This is North Dock - the northern most of the three docks which together form the West India Docks.
Like at many of London's docks, the gleaming modern skyscrapers stand beside remnants of the past, such as the cranes used to unload the goods from far off lands (in this case mainly Rum and Sugar) and the old warehouse buildings, now converted to flats, offices and restaurants.
This is a quieter part of the whole Canary Wharf / Isle of Dogs business district and is pretty much deserted when I arrive mid-morning. Only the restaurants and street-food stalls show any sign of life as they prepare for what they presumably hope is going to be a lunch-time rush.
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| Empty chairs at empty tables... |
At the western end of the dock are two points of interest.
The first of these is 'St. Peter's Barge' - which is apparently London's only floating church.
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| St. Peter's Barge |
At first I assume that this is a hangover from the dock's former hey-days, when the 'rough and ready' stevedores would be cajoled into spending at least some of their time hearing from the 'Good Book', rather than drinking their wages away in the nearest pub.
However, it seems this church has only been here since 2003 - long after the docks were redeveloped into the financial district that flourishes here today - so it must be the many Bankers and Brokers whose souls are in need of redemption....
They may have a point...
 |
| Museum of London Docklands |
The second point of interest is the Museum of London Docklands, just next to the floating church.
This occupies one of the former warehouses, and consists of three floors of exhibits offering a pretty comprehensive history of the development of the docks.
It's free to enter, so I feel duty-bound to have a look around it on your behalf, and it certainly has a lot to tell you - if you happen to be interested in Docklands life.
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| Dockers' Hooks |
Having spent quite a bit of time travelling around the docks on this journey, and having diligently researched the different areas I've visited, I've already learned a lot of the history on offer here.
Nevertheless, it's an interesting place to visit and does, of course, condense it all into one building, rather than requiring you to spend week after week travelling from station to station (I mean, who'd be silly enough to do that?).
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| Museum exhibition room - with destination signs hanging from ceiling |
Here then, are a few examples of what you can find in the museum.
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| Gibbet - as used at 'Execution Dock' (See 'Wapping') |
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| Fire 'Engine' |
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| Port of London Authority Police Equipment |
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| The Isle Of Dogs as a working port |
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| WWII Bomb shelter for Dock Workers... |
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| ...and what they were sheltering from. |
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| And into the modern age... |
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| Been there, done that... |
Back outside I take a last few photos.
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| A few more people - though not many. |
There are one or two more people about now, though it's still very quiet compared with the area outside Canary Wharf station.
I decide to walk back to Canary Wharf via the footbridge across the Dock, partly to see how long it takes (about five minutes) and partly to get a photo of a DLR train making the short journey between the two stations.
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| The |
I had idly wondered whether the distance was short enough that the back end of the train would still be in Canary Wharf as its front end entered West India Quay - but this isn't the case. In fact the trains are only about half as long as the 199m between the stations - though this still seems a faintly ridiculous distance to travel via train.
***
Next on my list is West Kensington, which despite the connotations of the latter part of its name, is a fairly non-descript station in an equally uninspiring part of London.
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| West Kensington |
The station lies between Earl's Court and Barons Court on the District Line, and - with Hammersmith to the west of the latter - suffers from being between two much busier shopping areas.
It's also on the main A4 Talgarth Road, which means that heavy traffic is constantly passing by - but rarely stopping.
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| A4 looking towards Earl's Court |
Immediately to the right of the station as you emerge from it is a pub styling itself 'The Famous 3 Kings'.
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| The Famous 3 Kings |
But, on the off-chance that its "fame" may somehow not as yet have reached your ears, I can inform you (thanks to a commemorative mural across the road) that the pub used to be known as The Nashville Room and that it was a live music venue.
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| The history of the Nashville Room |
Among those who (improbably perhaps, given the image conjured up by the word 'Nashville') played in the pub in their formative years are such well-known bands as the Sex Pistols and Joy Division, as well as the Police and U2.
The road heading south from the A4 is North End Road, and this contains a fairly standard assortment of shops and eateries - though nothing to set the heart racing.
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| North End Road |
To the west of the station, and running parallel to the A4, are the tracks of both the District and Piccadilly Lines. At this point along their adjacent course into central London they separate, and the Piccadilly Line drops below ground for the first time, as can be seen from a vantage point on one of the back streets.
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| Piccadilly Line Train - 'Going Underground' |
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| Home of M.K. Gandhi |
One other claim to fame the area does have is that it was home to a certain young law student during the latter part of the 19th Century.
The shy, tongue-tied, vegetarian, Hindu barrister who lived at number 20, Baron's Court Road, was called Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi - and would go on to become the one of the world's most inspirational leaders, and most famous advocates of non-violent protest.
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| Mahatma - or 'Venerable' - Gandhi lived here |
As you no doubt already know - the title 'Mahatma' (meaning 'Great Soul' or 'Venerable') was bestowed upon him in later life, and though almost taking the place of his given first name, it was a title he himself felt embarrassed by, according to his autobiography.
But that's just about all there is to see here.
I head back to the station, and am waiting for my train back into central London, when I notice, on the opposite platform, something I must have missed on my arrival.
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| West Kensington 'Station Garden' |
It's a small patch of garden, obviously tended by the station employees, and offering a little splash of greenery in an otherwise dull, grey environment.
I've seen a few of these 'Station Gardens' on my travels, and they always give me a brief but welcome frisson of pleasure when I encounter them. A lot of time and effort has clearly gone into creating and maintaining this little plot, and I can't think of many other workplaces where such a thing would happen, let alone be encouraged.
And so, in a slightly more upbeat mood than when I arrived, I set off from West Kensington to my final (and by far-and-away most landmark-laden) stop of the day.
***
Westminster packs in so many tourist attractions you'd be forgiven for thinking that Walt Disney had created it as some kind of "Westminster World of Adventures".
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| Westminster |
What with Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Downing Street, Whitehall, Parliament Square - not to mention Westminster Bridge and the river - it's one of the busiest places in London all year round.
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| Elizabeth Tower |
Of course, as any school-child knows, the first item on that list isn't actually a tourist attraction - in the sense of being something you can have your photo taken in front of - at all.
The name Big Ben refers to the great bell of the clock inside the tower rather than the tower itself, though this has been extended to refer to the whole clock tower for so long and by so many people that it seems churlish to continue to correct the misapprehension.
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| Winston and Ben |
This is unlikely to happen however, as the tower (previously simply called the Clock Tower) was officially renamed the Elizabeth Tower in 2012 to celebrate the queen's Diamond Jubilee.
Not that anyone's going to take any notice of that, of course, and Big Ben it will continue to be...
I'll come back to the Palace of Westminster (aka the Houses of Parliament), which adjoins the tower, shortly. Firstly though, I cross the road to the large square patch of grass opposite - Parliament Square - on which (as well as a multitude of tourists) can be found various statues of the Great and Good of British Political History.
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| Churchill |
The first, and most imposing, figure is that of Winston Churchill.
Statesman, orator, inspirational war-time leader and - let's face it - grumpy looking bugger, he stands scowling at Parliament as if he can't quite believe the mess people have made of the place since he shuffled off this mortal coil fifty-odd years ago. And many would say he'd be entirely justified in such thoughts.
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| Lloyd George |
A little way up from Churchill is another former Prime Minister - David Lloyd George.
He was Prime Minister during the first war, and - like Churchill - was generally regarded as a strong leader during those horrific years. However, also like Churchill, once war was over his popularity went into decline and he was out of office by 1922.
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| Mahatma Gandhi |
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| Nelson Mandela |
These two both led their people out from under the oppressive regimes that had blighted their respective countries, and are deservedly commemorated in this 'cradle of democracy'.
To the south of Parliament Square, and to the west of the Houses of Parliament, is Westminster Abbey - perhaps the most famous London church after St. Paul's Cathedral.
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| Westminster Abbey - Rose Window |
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| West Façade |
As was the case with St. Paul's Cathedral, despite having lived in London for many years, I've never actually been inside the Abbey, and had hoped to do so today.
However, though this would be perfectly possible were I to fork out the £22 entrance fee, I would not - according to the many signs attached to the railings surrounding it - be allowed to take any photos within the Abbey.
Since all I could give you, therefore, would be a list of facts and figures obtainable from any reputable internet-based encyclopaedia, I'll say nothing more and simply suggest that both you and I get our acts together and make the effort to visit the place ourselves one day.
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| Cenotaph on Whitehall |
To the north of Parliament Square is Whitehall - the home of many a government department and location of the Cenotaph, the national war memorial.
A short way along from this and leading off to the west is perhaps the most famous street in London: Downing Street - the home of the Prime Minister of Great Britain.
There are, as usual, a swarm of tourists brandishing their selfie-sticks in front of the heavily-guarded gates to Downing Street, but I'm mildly surprised to see - in a brief opening of the gates - the following scene...
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| Shouldn't you be, erm, well - sort of guarding the place? |
Of course, right now our various political leaders are all on their summer holidays, so perhaps it's a case of 'while the cat's away...'
Which brings us back to the Houses of Parliament.
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| Houses of Parliament |
Currently on their summer recess, the MPs have got the builders in while they're away, and the clock tower is having a bit of a make-over - causing some not inconsiderable controversy.
The major bone of contention (other than the inevitable complaints about how much the tax-payer will have to cough up for it all) is that the chimes of Big Ben have been silenced for the foreseeable future while the work is carried out, in order to prevent any damage to the hearing of the people doing the refurbishment.
There are those who condemn this as the epitome of 'health-and-safety-gone-mad-ness', while others tear their hair out in frustration at all this fuss and bother over what is, at the end of the day, only a big clock.
I have to say I fall more readily into the latter camp - not least because I'm sure the anti health and safety brigade will be the first to condemn the government if anyone suffers permanent deafness by being unexpectedly 'bonged' by Big Ben.
Like Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament are open to the public for guided tours, and this is one place I have actually visited before. However (also like Westminster Abbey), photography is pretty restricted within the building, and I would urge you to visit it yourself should you be interested in its inner workings.
The Houses of Parliament sit on the riverside, by Westminster Bridge, which was the scene earlier this year of one of the many recent terror attacks involving cars being driven into innocent pedestrians.
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| Westminster Bridge - and tourists aplenty |
I walk some way across the bridge - where there are now crash barriers in place - to take a photo of the river-side view of Westminster, and am glad to see that here, like the rest of the area surrounding the station, tourism is alive and well and undaunted by past events.
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| The Palace of Westminster |
And that completes today's journey.
Tune in next time for more W-based adventures!
