Friday, 31 July 2015

'Now I'm Here'

Day 46
 
High Street Kensington - Hillingdon - Holborn
 
Hello you...

It's been a while hasn't it? Over a month in fact, since my last post.

Back in the heady days of the E.A.E. (Early Alphabetic Era) when Man first set out on his tube travelling adventures (well - one man did, at any rate) and everything seemed not only possible, but very much a piece of easily digestible cake, I had thought (foolishly) that this journey might take me a year or so to complete.

I'd started off, full of enthusiasm, by heading out two or three times a week, and was crossing off the stations with a gratifying rapidity.

Then I realised that this wasn't really sustainable - there wasn't time to visit everywhere, come home, edit the photos, write up the blog and research the next trip more than once a week, without seriously rushing things. I felt I was perhaps missing out on some of the more interesting and unusual sights and sounds at each station, in my haste to be moving on to the next one.

So I settled into a more leisurely pace - one day a week, with occasional time off for holidays and the like.

Of course, in the amusing way it often does however, Life began to throw one or two banana skins onto my path and there have been periods when you've had nary a word from me for weeks on end.

It's not that I've lost any enthusiasm for the project. It's just that it does seem to take more time than I'd originally bargained for, and there are occasions, unfortunately, when other things have to take priority.

However, let's not get despondent. I'm here now - and with profound apologies for the delay, all I can offer is my assurance that it is my firm intention - however long it may take - to complete this challenge sooner or (more probably) later.

***
And with that, let's set off again.

I'm heading first to High Street Kensington.

High Street Kensington
The station, not surprisingly, sits on Kensington High Street (why the word Kensington has been demoted to the end of the name on the tube map, I have no idea) and is contained within a shopping mall called Kensington Arcade.

Shopping is very much a feature of this area, with many famous names lining the street and even more famous names sadly lost to the annals of history.


Barker Of Kensington
(Now Whole Foods Market)
Derry & Toms
(Now M&S)
The two most famous of these were Barkers Of Kensington (started in 1870) and Derry & Toms (founded in 1862) and the original grandeur of the two department store buildings (now housing a Whole Foods Market and a Marks & Spencer, respectively) is still plain to see.

Barkers actually purchased Derry & Toms in 1920, and both companies eventually became part of House Of Fraser.

The Derry & Toms building is most well-known these days as the location of the Kensington Roof Gardens - one of the largest roof gardens in Europe, and began as a means of raising charitable funds for local hospitals via the 1s entrance fee, which entitled visitors to take in the Spanish, Tudor and English Country Gardens, as well as the Clubhouse and of course, spectacular views.

These days the gardens are more often hired out for exclusive private functions. I know this because when I turned up at the ground floor entrance hoping to get a few photos from the rooftop, I was informed that there was a private party taking place and would have to come back another day.

It really does seem to be becoming a feature of this journey that museums and landmarks turn out to be closed at precisely the time I want to visit them...

Kensington Rood Gardens
(or as much of them as you can see from street level)
I have to content myself with a miniscule glimpse of a couple of treetops from the street opposite the building, and then a quick wander up and down the High Street.

View along the High Street
The shops aren't enough to interest me for long, however, and I decide to head on to the next stop - catching the tube to Earl's Court, and from there out on the Piccadilly Line to Hillingdon.

***
Now, if you happen to have gone for a spin in the old Jalopy, out to the Cotswolds for instance, and are now making your weary way back to the Big Smoke along the M40 (or A40 as it becomes closer to town) then one of the early indications that you're finally approaching the Capital is the sight of several huge London Underground 'Roundel' logos dominating the motorway from the towering red brick wall between it and the tube station that stands next to it.

Hillingdon
This is Hillingdon.

Roundels on the Motorway
The roundels seem to be (and I'm more than happy for someone to correct me if I'm wrong about this) unique on the Underground system, and I'm not sure I entirely see the point of them.

Anyone on the motorway (by whom, presumably, the roundels intended to be viewed) travelling past them at the statutory speed limit, will have just enough time to register that there might be a tube station somewhere nearby (though not which one, as there is no station name visible from the road) before they have whizzed past. At which point the moment when they could safely stop and take advantage of the trains passing through the station will be long gone.  This, coupled with the fact that they are in a car, and therefore seem to have the whole transport thing pretty much sorted out, seems to suggest that whoever decided on putting the roundels up hadn't really thought things through.

Unless, to go back to my introduction to this station, they are merely intended as an indication that you are approaching the Capital - the home of the Underground. Are they simply a way to make you feel a bit more London-y?

Whatever the reason they're there, they are sadly the most interesting thing about the station and its environs.

The actor James Corden was born here, if that's of any interest to you, and there are a few shops to the south (along a road called Long Lane) but they don't have either the history or the attraction of the more upmarket ones in Kensington. Not surprising perhaps - being in a suburb and on top of a motorway is hardly the most tourist-friendly environment.

Still, I'm always a little disappointed when I find myself leaving a place barely fifteen minutes after my arrival, which unfortunately is exactly what I do today.

***
And so to my final stop of the day.

It's back into town on the Piccadilly Line, stopping at Holborn.

Holborn
As well as being a tube station, Holborn (pronounced "Hoe-buhn" rather than "Holl-" or "Hole-buhn", just so you know) is also a street, and an area of London. The street called Holborn is actually some distance to the east of the station, beyond Chancery Lane, while the station sits on the busy junction of High Holborn and Kingsway.

The junction of High Holborn and Kingsway (looking south)
Since I visited the part of Holborn which lies beyond Chancery Lane tube station some time ago during the Cs, I decide today to head in the opposite direction and explore a little to the north and west.

I head briefly north therefore, up Southampton Row, before nipping off westwards down a delightful little pedestrianized street called Sicilian Avenue.

Entrance to Sicilian Avenue



Sicilian Avenue
Though it looks older than it is (it was completed in 1910) it definitely gives the feeling of an Italianate promenade, although it has to be said that this does rely on the sun being out - as, luckily, it is today.

There are a smattering of people enjoying a coffee or a meal outside the various restaurants that line the street, and at the other end is Bloomsbury Square and its gardens - also full of people enjoying the sun.

I'm heading in the general direction of The British Museum, the 'Big Daddy' of the museums in this area (of which there are many). In fact, the stretch between Euston Road to the north, and The Strand to the south is now known as Museum Mile thanks to the number of museums dotted along the route.

I won't actually be going into the British Musem on this occasion - partly because we're currently in the School Summer Holidays, and the place is likely to be swarming with bored kids being dragged around by their desperate parents in an attempt to stave off the inevitable "Mum - I'm bored......", and partly because I prefer to take you off the beaten track a little - and there are one or two other museums nearby that I feel might be more to our fancy.

Museum Of Comedy
(Ha ha - very funny...)



The first of these - The Museum of Comedy, on Bloomsbury Way - is, typically, shut when I arrive. For some weird reason (perhaps an attempt at comedy?) it only opens in the evenings - when most people have gone home - so I'm unable to experience the 'iconic props and artefacts from our rich comedic history' exhibited within.







Trudging on, around a couple of corners onto Little Russell Street, I find the next museum on my quest is, thankfully, open for business.

This is the Cartoon Museum.

Cartoon Museum
I've always had a penchant for cartoons - from reading the Beano and watching Tom & Jerry as a kid, enjoying the puerile filth in Viz as a teenager, and finally appreciating the ascerbic wit and political acumen of the cartoons in my daily newspaper, so I happily pay my £7 to get in and have a look round.

Note the Charlie Hebdo cartoon - top right of the picture.
The events at the offices of French magazine Charlie Hebdo in January are brought to mind as I wander around the exhibits, and spot a cartoon that responds to the attacks in typically robust fashion.

I won't go into politics here - but I do feel that the right to Free Speech is one we should defend at all costs.

Further around the museum is an exhibition dedicated to Alice In Wonderland, though not restricted to the Lewis Carroll original by any means. There are politicians represented as Tweedledum and Tweedle Dee, for example, and satirical commentary using the White Rabbit, Red Queen, 'Eat Me' label, and many other episodes from the story. And, of course, Mr Disney gets a mention too...


Alice - the Disney version



I head back outside (passing a cheery 'Andy Capp' on my way) and decide that that's probably enough for one day.

I'm still many stations from the end of the H section - which for some reason seems interminable - and hundreds away from the end of the whole journey. But as I said at the beginning - I will finish this! One day.....







 
 


Tuesday, 16 June 2015

'Only A Northern Song'

Day 45
 
Hendon Central - Heron Quays - High Barnet - Highbury & Islington - Highgate
 
An early start today, and hopefully a day on which I'll shake off the dust of the last couple of rather lacklustre journeys.

I start with Hendon Central, way up on the Edgware branch of the Northern Line.

Hendon Central
It's a rather grand looking building, Grade II Listed, with a columned portico leading to a large ticket hall. Above and around it have been added shops and offices, and the whole thing sits on one corner of what is now an extremely busy crossroads.

Hendon
At the time of building, however, the station was pretty much the only structure here, and the rest has developed over time, until the area is now a bustling suburb.

One of the roads crossing the crossroads is the A41 (which starts at Marble Arch and, should you be tempted to follow it all the way, ends up in Birkenhead) and given that we're only a few minutes from the North Circular, The A1 and it's big brother, the M1 - this means that traffic gets pretty heavy around here.

I'm mildly surprised therefore to notice that most of the crossings are above ground, and only one is via a subway. Most other junctions of this size would favour subways, surely? And why have both? Could they not make up their minds?

I stroll around the crossroads, and the fairly standard collection of shops, cafés and other establishments, before heading south east of the station to Hendon Park.

Hendon Park


Holocaust Memorial Arch


In stark contrast to the roar of traffic and constant flow of pedestrians outside the station, the park is an oasis of peace - not least because it contains a memorial garden dedicated to the victims of the holocaust, and a place of quiet contemplation.




An archway bears the Hebrew word 'lezikaron' - meaning looking forwards, but remembering the past, and I spend a peaceful few minutes here before heading back out into the hustle and bustle and my next destination.

***

At the station, before heading on, I pick up the latest copy of the Tube Map.

These are printed every 6 months or so, and include minor changes to the service (stations closed for refurbishment, etc), which would otherwise cause the unwary traveller some small inconvenience.

This latest edition, however, contains some rather radical changes to the previous maps, and in particular to the map on which I've based the entirety of the my current challenge - and I feel obliged to digress for a few moments to discuss them with you.

December 2013

The December 2013 edition of the map (shown above) was, at the time I started the Wombling Challenge, the latest edition and therefore the one I used to plan this whole shebang. On the whole it hadn't changed that much over the years leading up to it - certainly not since the development of Canary Wharf and Docklands - and other than the odd closure or minor diversion, I felt it would serve me well.

But take a look at the latest (May 2015) version.

May 2015
Now, I've known this was coming, so perhaps I shouldn't get too worked up about it, but... what on earth are they trying to do to me!!!

Not only have they suddenly decided to include a whole load of extra stations on the London Overground lines (top right - to the left of the Central Line's 'Hainault Loop') but they've also included a whole new line! The 'TFL Rail' line! (Liverpool Street to Shenfield - heading out east).

That's over thirty new stations!

Whereas previously I was proud to state that I'd visited the only two stations to reach the dizzying heights of being in Zone 9 (yes 9!!!), now they've gone and put Shenfield in a special zone all of its own, outside of zone 9! Not Zone 10 - oh no, too easy - this is unnumbered, but 'special fares apply'!

And yes - before you ask - these new additions do include some beginning with letters I've already completed and ticked off my list.

And so I've taken an executive decision.

Since I began this challenge using the December 2013 map, I'm bloody well going to stick to that map and that one alone.

If I really feel like it, I might do a sequel to the challenge some time in the future - by which time all sorts of other things like Crossrail and HS2 will probably have been thrown into the mix - but for now, I'm sticking to the 368 stations I originally said I'd visit.

***
Anyway, onto the next stop - Heron Quays.

Heron Quays
 It's on the DLR, barely 10 seconds away from its closest neighbour - Canary Wharf, to the north - and you do have to wonder at the mentality of the people who put it there.

Surely passengers, even the ever-so-important banking types that work here, can manage to walk the extra couple of hundred feet from Canary Wharf station rather than insisting on a second station so close to it?

I've barely taken two steps outside the station and I'm in the main plaza in front of Canary Wharf station.

It therefore shares almost entirely the same environs and is only really distinguished by the fact that it has an entrance to the south onto 'South Dock', as well as the one leading to 'Middle Dock', which Canary Wharf station also leads to.

Having visited Canary Wharf almost exactly a year ago I feel no burning desire to linger very long, and I jump back on the train (using Canary Wharf station this time - I just couldn't face the 'trek' back to Heron Quays...) - this time heading north on the other branch of the Northern Line, to its terminus: High Barnet.

***
Well, it's certainly high.


High Barnet
Both the station, and the town it serves (known as Chipping Barnet - aka High Barnet), lie on Barnet Hill, and are about 400 feet above sea-level. This is one of the highest areas in London, and its elevation gives it an isolated feel - like some kind of medieval walled town (only without the wall).

Barnet was the site of one of the key battles in the Wars Of The Roses, where the Earl of Warwick (The 'Kingmaker') was killed by Edward IV of York's troops. Possibly, though only tenuously, linked to this fact is the claim that Barnet Hill is the very hill up (and down) which the 'Grand Old Duke Of York' had such fun marching his 10,000 men. There seems little evidence for this, and indeed the identity of the particular Duke in question is subject to many alternative claims.

A horse fair - Barnet Fair - dating back to 1588 took place here regularly and is commemorated in the rhyming slang phrase 'Barnet', meaning hair.

It has a pleasant enough shopping street and I wander up and down (though all on one level, unlike the Duke's men) for half an hour or so.

Soon though, I feel it's time to move on, as I hope to fit two more stations into today's schedule - so I march me down again to the station, and head to Highbury & Islington.

***
Highbury & Islington is a station I got to know fairly well only a short while ago when I was appearing in a play across the road from it - in a pub theatre called the Hen & Chickens.

It's in Islington, at the other end of Upper Street from Angel tube station, and my memory stirs as I emerge from the ticket hall, and I remember the mad dash and brief glimpse I gave this station as I tried to fit in too many stations in one day, way back when I was doing the 'A's.

Highbury & Islington

Today I have a little more leisure, and - since it's a sunny day - I take myself just round the corner to a park called Highbury Fields. There are plenty of people out sunning themselves, and a funfair is being set up in the middle of the park.

Like the Hendon Park this morning, Highbury Fields is a little pocket of peace a mere couple of minutes from the hustle and bustle of Islingtonians going about their business. The station sits on a busy roundabout, but here in the park it's easy to forget that and just relax and enjoy the sunshine.

***
Only, I can't spend too much time relaxing - I'm back off up the Northern Line yet again, to my final stop - Highgate.

Highgate
This is another station built on a hill - or rather, in this case, built into a hill, as a deep cutting was made and the station located at the bottom of it.

This means that the entrance you see from the road is actually just the start of a long steep climb down to the track level. The hill is Highgate Hill, though the road at this point is called Archway Road and is part of the A1.

Highgate is, of course, famous for its cemetery - where lie the mortal remains of such luminaries as Karl Marx, George Eliot, Ralph Richardson, Michael Faraday, Stella Gibbons, Douglas Adams, Bert Jansch and - if you're interested - Jeremy Beadle.

I don't make the trek there to see it however, as it's actually closer to Archway station than to here.

Instead I walk up Archway Road a little way, past the various pubs and shops that have chosen to locate themselves here.

It seems (at first glance) an odd choice - being on such a steep hill and a road where the traffic couldn't stop, even if it wanted to. But there are a fair few residential streets off the main road, and enough of a local community to keep things ticking over here.

There's an arts centre, various cafés (including a quirky little vegetarian place, which was where we rehearsed the play I did at the Hen & Chickens - see how it all connects one way or another?) and for those who have the stamina, some green - if hilly - spaces to explore.

After a day's travelling, however, my stamina is at a fairly low ebb - so I head home, once again, wondering (not for the first time) if I'll ever reach the end of the 'H's - let alone the rest of the alphabet...

Thursday, 7 May 2015

'Come Fly with Me'

Day 44

Hatton Cross - Headstone Lane - Heathrow Terminals 1,2,3 - Heathrow Terminal 4 - Heathrow Terminal 5

Since day one of this journey, one particular section of the Tube Map has regularly caught my eye as somewhere the alphabetically-minded traveller can feel very much at home. Of the eleven stations on the Heathrow branch of the Piccadilly Line, no fewer than seven are brought to you by the letter 'H' (as our friends on Sesame Street would say). Everything beyond Osterley in fact - which seems more than mere coincidence.
 
It's true that three of the stations are named after the various terminals of Heathrow airport, and three of the others are in the borough of Hounslow - but if I've learned one thing on this journey, it's that geographical proximity does not necessarily equate to alphabetical juxtaposition. Many's the planning headache given me by the christeners of London's underground stations, who - rather than giving us the sensibly alphabetical names of, for example, Acton Central, Acton East, Acton North, Acton South, Acton Town and Acton West, thus enabling me to visit them all in one day - have instead tended to put the 'north', 'south', 'west' (and so on) bits first, giving me such ridiculous itineraries as South Hampstead - South Harrow - South Kensington - South Kenton, and leaving me zig-zagging across London like a lunatic.
 
Except - for some curious reason - they haven't followed this pattern on this particular stretch of the Piccadilly Line...
 
Here we find Hounslow Central, Hounslow East and Hounslow West - conveniently adjacent both geographically and (with a minor bit of to-ing and fro-ing along the line) alphabetically. Great for my purposes, but a puzzling departure from the usual practice.
 
I'm not visiting the Hounslow Stations today, of course - they're towards the end of the 'H' section - and the Heathrow stations would be next to each other even if the word 'Terminal' came at the beginning (which would be a contradiction in terms, when you come to think about it) rather than the end of the name. It's just odd, that's all.
 
Anyway, with the minor inconvenience of a departure up to Headstone Lane, I'll be spending most of my time down here in the south-west corner of the Tube Map, and - for once - having a relatively easy time of it.
 
***
And of course, the major theme today is...
 
AIRPORTS!
 
Not only will I be visiting the various airport terminals, but my first station - Hatton Cross - is located right next to the south-eastern perimeter of Heathrow, and is the location of many of the usual hotels and other businesses that rely on the airport for their livelihoods.
 
Hatton Cross
Not that it's an especially salubrious location.
 
To quote Douglas Adams: 'It can hardly be a coincidence that no language on Earth has ever produced the expression "as pretty as an airport"'.
 
The 24-hour neon-lit anonymity of the departure lounges, duty-free shops and check-in desks is depressing enough - but outside it's all just car-parks, hotels, freight depots and triple-carriageways.

There is, of course, the regular arrival or departure of planes to liven things up a little, but I'm not close enough here to get any really impressive photos, and - well, when you've seen one plane, you've seen them all.

I head south from the station (which is on a busy crossroads - the 'Cross' which gave it its name) towards the village - if it can be called that - of Hatton itself.

On the way, I'm surprised to find myself passing a field with grazing horses, ducks and geese.

Airport? What airport?

There doesn't seem to be any particular farm building attached to the field, and it gives the impression of having been somehow overlooked by everyone as they were busily building a whopping great airport next to it. Any day now someone's going to look round, do a double-take, and yell: "Who the %*&! left that there!!!"

Jet-propulsion and horse-power in perfect harmony.
A little further on is a quaint-ish pub called the Green Man. It looks shut when I get here (as it would be at 10.30 in the morning) and I wonder how much business they actually do - it's not exactly a tourist attraction, and the only buildings around are all freight-depots. I suspect other than a brisk lunchtime trade it's very quiet round here.


The Green Man
So, having exhausted the delights of Hatton Cross, I move on.

***
I make my way north to Headstone Lane.

Headstone Lane

This is an isolated Overground station on the way to Watford, just south of Hatch End, and in much the same way as I failed to find very much of interest at that earlier H station, Headstone Lane similarly provides little in the way of entertainment.

The road that gives the station its name is a winding affair on the outskirts of North Harrow. There are fields to the west, and a smattering of residential streets nearby, but it's to the south that I head, to the Headstone Manor Recreation Ground - and Headstone Manor itself.

It sounds like something from a Hammer Horror movie, but Headstone Manor is actually a 14th Century Manor House, famous round these parts for having the only water-filled moat in Middlesex.

Headstone Manor (to the right) and its moat.
It's a Grade I listed building, and apparently has much of interest to the student of architecture.

Headstone Manor

I can't see any of this, however, as the building is closed to the public.

The attached museum, in some old barn buildings, is also out of bounds today, as they're repairing the roof, so I leave Headstone Manor with nothing but a few photos for my trouble.

***
And so it's back south to the Piccadilly Line and the various stations serving Heathrow Airport.

Technically speaking I wasn't supposed to take any photos for some reason (probably something to do with terrorism, though quite what benefit a potential Bin Laden will gain from a photo of a fluorescent sign is beyond me) - however, I managed to grab the requisite Signage snaps with my phone.

Heathrow Terminals 1,2,3
Heathrow Terminal 4
Heathrow Terminal 5
Since they're all much of a muchness, I'll treat the stations as a 'collection' for the purposes of description - they are practically indistinguishable from one another, being on the whole grubby, white, fluorescently lit, and crowded with identical mobs of holiday-makers battling with their suitcases.

I don't seem to be able to get much beyond the ticket halls of each station, and am therefore unable to get to any useful vantage point from which to take exciting photos of planes landing and taking off.

I'm sure I remember, as a kid, coming here and being taken to the 'Observation Area' where you could watch the planes for hours. But there's no indication of such an area now - probably another victim of the heightened security post 9/11.

So that ends my journey for today.

Not altogether stimulating, I admit, and I hope that some of the later Hs have more to offer!

Thursday, 16 April 2015

'A Little Time'

Day 43
 
Harrow & Wealdstone - Harrow-on-the-Hill - Hatch End
 
Although I'm posting it some time after the event, this post actually relates to a trip I made a few weeks ago - rather a whistle-stop tour, taking in a fairly compact area of North West London.

The reason for the delay in posting is that I've had only a little time to spare for Wombling in the past few weeks, as I was in rehearsal, and then performing, a play. The show went very well (thanks for asking) and is now over, which means I can return to my Wombling duties properly.

When I went out on this particular jaunt, I'd just about learnt my lines, so felt justified (particularly since the stations were all relatively close together and it was a sunny day) in taking a little time out to cross them off the list...

So - let's go back in time to the 16th April, and to my first station - Harrow & Wealdstone.

***


Harrow & Wealdstone
Harrow & Wealdstone is a combined Overground and Underground station in the Wealdstone area of the borough of Harrow. The area is named after the 'Weald Stone' - a stone marking the boundary between Harrow and Harrow Weald.

I can't say I'm overly impressed with the immediate surroundings of the station. What was once green fields is now rather drab tarmac and concrete. Other than a few kebab shops, hairdressers and mobile phone repair centres, there's not much to see or do here.

Up the road from the station is the only real bit of colour in the area - a mural painted along a length of wall, depicting various scenes - both historical and social - including a memorial to the victims of what is still the worst rail-crash to occur in peacetime in Britain.

Welcome to Wealdstone

The crash took place on the 8th October 1952, when an express train from Perth crashed into a stationary passenger train, blocking further tracks with its wreckage. Another express train crashed into the Perth train, and 112 people lost their lives, with a further 340 people reporting injuries of one sort or another.

Rail Crash Memorial

The mural, like many of its type, looks like the work of local schoolchildren, and its primary colours certainly give the area a splash of much needed vibrancy.

Harrow & Wealdstone reportedly has the highest crime rate in the Borough of Harrow, and I'm provided with ample evidence of this as I return to the station after my brief wanderings. A trio of youths are being questioned by an inordinately large number of police officers outside a kebab shop. I have no idea whether a crime has been committed or if this is prevention rather than cure, but the whole picture recalls the similar one I experienced first hand in Bounds Green, and I feel no regret about moving swiftly on to my next stop.

***
And luckily, it's just down the road. Or rather, the track.

Not the same track, sadly, so there's a bit of judicial footwork between stations to get from the one to the other, but before too long I find myself in the fairly salubrious environs of Harrow-on-the-Hill.

Or I would do, if a certain well-known private educational establishment hadn't put their oar in.

Harrow-on-the-Hill Station, though not Harrow-on the-Hill itself
I'm actually about half a mile north of Harrow-on-the-Hill, in another part of the borough called Greenhill. It appears that the Governors of Harrow School (more of which anon) objected to the original route planned for the Metropolitan Line, which would have passed more directly through the area from which this station takes its name, and so the station was built here instead.

All this means as far as I'm concerned, is that I don't fancy a half mile trek up the hill simply in order to take a few photos of boys in straw hats. Their loss.

I'll give you a few interesting facts about the school though, just in case you were thinking of sending your offspring there one day...

  • The original school was founded to give free (yes, free) education to the children of the parish.
  • The current Headmaster is called Jim Hawkins - no relation.
  • The game of Squash was invented there, being developed from the earlier game of 'Racquets'.
  • Lord Byron went to the school and once plotted to blow up his Headmaster.
  • The uniform features a black tie - originally worn in mourning for Queen Victoria, no-one ever thought to instruct the boys to stop wearing it, so they've been obediently putting it on ever since.
  • The hat worn by the boys is not, as is commonly assumed, a 'boater' - it is shallower and wider-brimmed. Which I'm sure makes all the difference.
  • Famous  Old Harrovians include Winston Churchill, as well as six other British Prime Ministers, disgraced politician John Profumo, Terence Rattigan, Richard Brinsley Sheridan, Anthony Trollope, Benedict Cumberbatch, Richard Curtis, Edward Fox, James Fox and his son Lawrence Fox (although he was expelled because of 'something to do with a girl at a dance', as he describes it) and singer James Blunt.

***
50 Years a Borough
(not the sequel to
12 Years A Slave)
As well as the station, Greenhill has two large shopping precincts, right next door to each other - St Ann's and St George's. The two are connected by a pedestrianized area and, on a sunny day like today, it provides a pleasant place to while away a few hours of retail therapy.



At one end of the pedestrianized area is a statue of a young girl, skipping. The statue was erected to commemorate fifty years of Harrow being a Borough (though what a skipping girl has to do with that, I have no idea) and was unveiled by the Queen.





After a brief stop for lunch, and feeling I've seen all there is to see here, I move on to my final stop of the day - Hatch End.

***
Hatch End, a market town with one main street and not much else, seems in keeping with the rest of the day so far. None of the places I've visited have held my attention for very long, and Hatch End is the shortest stay of the lot.

Hatch End

There's nothing wrong with it - don't get me wrong - I'm sure it's very pleasant and that the people are all lovely. It's just that, as I stroll along The Broadway (the main street) I feel like I've seen this sort of high street hundreds of times before. It's all very nice, but all rather dull.


The Broadway - nice, but dull.
Even the ever trusty internet fails to dredge up more than a couple of interesting facts about the place.

The comedian Barry Cryer lives somewhere around here, and I suspect that it was long trundling train journeys into London which provided him and the other I'm Sorry I Haven't A Clue regulars with the idea for the game Mornington Crescent. I will of course be dealing with the intricate rules of that game when I visit it's namesake station sometime in the not too distant future.

Another famous resident was the cookery writer and fore-runner to today's 'celebrity chefs' - Mrs Beeton.

Her 'Book Of Household Management' became an instant best-seller when it was released in the early 1860s - despite containing some rather odd instructions. I for one won't be boiling my pasta for the recommended hour and forty-five minutes, for example.

And that's really all I can tell you about Hatch End.

It's been an unsatisfactory day in many ways, but at least I've ticked three more stations of the list, and hopefully the next few Hs will have more to offer.

Until then, it's toodle-pip from me.

Thursday, 19 March 2015

'Alphabet St.'

Day 42
Hampstead - Hampstead Heath - Hanger Lane - Harlesden - Harringay Green Lanes
We're going decidedly upmarket with our first two stations of the day, and they're also within a stone's throw of each other, which makes a nice change.
On the other hand, I wouldn't actually throw any stones around this part of town if I were you, as the cost of replacing any damaged windows - most of which bedeck the fronts of properties which, if not actually listed, are definitely 'period' and in a protected Conservation Area - would be extortionate.
Hampstead Station sits on the crossroads formed by Holly Hill (to the north), Heath Street (to the east and west) and Hampstead High Street (to the south).

Hampstead

Hampstead High Street is actually the top end of Rosslyn Hill, which in turn becomes Haverstock Hill further south, so you would be correct in surmising that Hampstead is just as elevated geographically speaking, as it is in terms of average income, social status and property value.
From the station (I don't need to point out the familiar décor, do I?) I walk down the High Street and am pleasantly surprised by the atmosphere of the place. While clearly catering to an affluent clientele, the area around the High Street manages to retain a somewhat quaint, but surprisingly welcoming, 'village-y' feel to it.
This is especially true of some of the little back streets, full of quirky little shops and - on Flask Walk for example - the occasional historic pub.

Flask Walk - and The Flask pub

The Flask pub sits on (or near) the site of the old Hampstead 'Wells' (source of a highly regarded and much imbibed mineral water. There's also a Well Walk at the other end of Flask Walk, so I imagine the exact location of the spring was somewhere between the two. In its heyday the water was as prized as that from Epsom or Buxton or - and I hadn't been aware of this before now - that which came from, and gave its name to, Tunbridge Wells. The connection now seems obvious of course, but before today I had completely missed the significance of the word Wells in Tunbridge's name.

Hampstead High Street

Back on the High Street I pass several artisan bakeries, upmarket clothes shops, and a few more familiar names like Waterstones and Starbucks. I also notice something rather peculiar about one of the side streets running off the High Street.
At first glance Willoughby Road, and more specifically the sign that informs you of its name, seems to be a fairly typical example of the local area. The street signs around here tend to be of the 'mosaic' style - in other words they are spelled out 'Scrabble-style' with individual letter tiles which are stuck onto the walls of the houses at each end of the street.
Something about the sign for Willoughby Road, however, catches the corner of my eye and I take a second, and then a third glance, before I realise what it is. The sign actually reads "WILLQUGHBY RD" - it appears that the sign-fitters ran out of the letter O and decided that a Q was a close-enough substitute.
And it's not the only street to suffer this fate. Further north, Templewood Avenue has not only had its Os replaced with Qs, but they also seem to have run out of blank tiles, so instead of a 'space' they've put a 'comma'. It's true that - in an effort to disguise the Qs they've been put in upside down, but the whole effect is really rather odd:
"TEMPLEWΌΌD,AVENUE"
***
I turn off the main road and go in search of one of the many historic houses in Hampstead, and one which now houses the Hampstead Museum.

Burgh House

Sadly the house in question - Burgh House - is closed and doesn't open its doors to the public until 12pm.
I'm reminded of the last time I tried to visit a museum in this part of town - the Freud Museum over towards the Finchley Road. That too only opened at 12pm. Perhaps this is a reflection of their location in such an affluent area - the leisured classes can't possibly be expected to do anything as strenuous as visiting a museum before luncheon...
I head on to the next station - Hampstead Heath - which sits at the bottom of the Heath which gives it its name.
Hampstead Heath
Before venturing onto the heath itself, however, I take a brief stroll around the streets near the station. This is another little 'village' of bakeries, coffee shops and pubs, and has similarly grand looking architecture.
The Royal Free Hospital dominates the area, and was one of two hospitals set up by William Marsden to provide (in the bad old days before the NHS) free healthcare to the less well-off (the other was the Royal Marsden Hospital).
On another back street is the house once belonging to the poet Keats. This is now a museum and is therefore - when I visit it - closed to the public until 1pm.
Keats' House
The house, or rather its garden, was apparently where he wrote the poem 'Ode To A Nightingale' - a jolly little piece about death that begins:

"My heart aches, and a drowsy numbness pains
My sense, as though of hemlock I had drunk,"
And goes downhill from there.
Keats wos 'ere
In any case, since the museums of Hampstead are determined to keep their doors closed to visitors, I decide to make my way to the huge area of open space called Hampstead Heath - at least they can't close that down!
The heath is vast. It's the largest area of ancient parkland in London - all 790 acres of it - and I therefore only visit a small portion of it today. I start by walking up East Heath Road to the intriguingly named 'Vale Of Health'.
My research tells me that this little road at the north end of the Heath is the site of a small hamlet originally called Gangmoor, and subsequently Hachett's or Hatch's Bottom after one of the resident cottagers. (I'm reasonably certain the word 'cottager' here is being used here in its literal sense of someone who lives in a cottage, rather than the more modern slang - though given Hampstead Heath's reputation one can never be entirely sure...)
The name Vale Of Health is actually an ironic one, since the area was very much an unpleasant boggy marsh originally. And even when people started living and working here, they did so in laundries, tanning pits, varnish factories and the like.
Vale Of Health Pond
The change of name was clearly intended to throw off such associations - and it seems to have worked as this is now one of the most expensive areas to live in Hampstead, which is saying a lot.

“This is the land of Narnia" said
the Faun, "where we are now;
all that lies between the lamp-
post and the great castle of Cair
Paravel on the eastern sea.”
C.S. Lewis

I wander along the nearest thing that could vaguely be considered a footpath, and come across the sort of lamp-post from behind which Mr Tumnus might have popped put to startle any visiting Pevensie children. I can imagine that on a snowy winter's day this place must give Narnia a real run for its money.
It's by the first of the Heath's many 'ponds' - although don't be deceived, any relationship to the two-foot diameter sunken plastic goldfish bowl jobs in most back gardens is entirely coincidental. These ponds are lakes - some for swimming, others for wildlife.
Further along I find myself on a wider path - it could even be a road - called Lime Avenue.
This cuts right across the Heath and is usually full of dog-walkers.
Lime Avenue


Hearts On The Heath
To one side of the avenue I spot some trees which have been cut down. On the exposed trunks someone has stencilled some red hearts. I take a photo as I find them interesting but I have no idea what they symbolise so if anyone can enlighten me, please do so.
Next I come to another pond - and this is one of Hampstead Heath's famous bathing ponds.
These were officially designated as bathing ponds in the late 1800s although I can't imagine they had been unused before then. There are three bathing ponds, two for single-sex and one for mixed bathing.
The one I stand next to now is the Mixed Bathing Pond, and I have to say, I'm not particularly tempted to go for a dip. I'm sure the water is lovely on a scorching hot day but right now I most definitely want to keep my clothes on.
Mixed Bathing Pond
I could of course spend hours wandering around the Heath, but that wouldn't get me very far down my list of stations, so instead I move on and make my way to the next stop on my list - and one fairly close to home for me - Hanger Lane.
***
The station sits on the island of the large multi-lane roundabout (or Gyratory System as the powers that be for some reason seem to want to call this one) that gives it its name.
Hanger Lane
The traffic is certainly the main feature around here, and you haven't really experienced the Gyratory System unless you've done it behind the wheel of a car trying desperately to negotiate the different lanes (anywhere between 4 and 8 of them) and various exits.
At its busiest it can see up to 10,000 vehicles an hour and I try to take a picture that shows the manic chaos that is pretty much the norm on the roundabout, but no still image will really do it justice.
Pick a lane, any lane...
Instead let me point you to the entry on the H2G2 website, which I think sums it up rather nicely.
I use the various pedestrian subways to get me onto the island itself, where in addition the tube station there is supposed to be a nature reserve of all things.
Nature very much in Reserve
This seems to consist of a couple of grass verges with a few trees and a smattering of daffodils - hardly the Hanging Gardens of Babylon...
A View From The Bridge
Tube tracks and motorway in perfect harmony.
The station is, as I mentioned earlier, reasonably close to home for me, and it's tempting to call it a day here and just head home.
However, it's early enough in the day that I should be able to manage at least one more and possibly even two more stations, so I set off once again, on the rather convoluted route to Harlesden.
***
Harlesden is on the Bakerloo and the Overground lines and is in the North West of London pretty much due north of Hanger Lane.
To get there from Hanger Lane however requires a journey into town on the Central Line, changing at White City to walk to the Circle Line station at Wood Lane, where you get a train to Paddington, change onto the Bakerloo Line, and finally end up at Harlesden.
Harlesden
And when you get there you wonder why you bothered.
The station itself is actually nowhere near the centre of Harlesden and is in fact on Acton Lane - a fairly nondescript road which joins the industrial area of Park Royal with the slightly less industrial area of Harlesden.
The road does cross the Paddington Arm of the Grand Union Canal, but that's really in Park Royal rather than Harlesden, and to get to Harlesden town centre would take a good half hour on foot.
So after a disappointingly brief visit, I move on to my final destination today - also on the Overground Line.
***
Harringay Green Lanes
Harringay Green Lanes - for such is the name of the station - is on the road called Green Lanes, in the area of London known as Harringay.
Or is it?
Could it instead - as the bus stop next to the station would have it - be the station of Haringey Green Lanes, in the London Borough of Haringey?
I can understand - at a push - the fact that a chap called Haering (a saxon chief) had a 'Hege' - or 'enclosure' - in this area called Haeringes-Hege, and that over time this was corrupted into both Haringey (the London Borough) and Harringay (the district within the London borough) as well as - less obviously perhaps - another district called Hornsey.
I can also - just about, though it's stretching my understanding to its very limits - forgive the successive town councils who, having once decided that Harringay and Haringey were two separate entities, refused to make life easy for everyone once and for all by just spelling them the same way.


That's what town councils are for, after all.
Haringey Green Lanes
What baffles the bejeesus out of me is how anyone with any sense whatsoever can allow a station called Harringay Green Lanes to have a sign saying Harringay Green Lanes outside it, while a few feet away a bus stop is telling everyone they're at a station called Haringey Green Lanes!
Or maybe - like Hampstead - they just ran out of the right letters...
Under the railway bridge (which tells us that an unspecified 'it' is coming) is the site of the former Harringay Arena - now a retail park.
Yes, but what's coming exactly..?
Here I find the usual selection of shops and restaurants, but little else to interest me. I stop for a coffee in the Costa Coffee and wait for whatever it is that's supposed to be 'coming' - but it seems not to be due any time soon.
Maybe it got lost in all the confusion over place names.