Tuesday, 25 July 2017

'Go West'

Day 94
 
West Acton - Westbourne Park - West Brompton - West Croydon - Westferry
 
My first journey today is about as short and sweet as you can get, without actually staying put in one place.

I'm travelling the grand distance of just one stop along the Central Line from my home station of Ealing Broadway to its next-door neighbour, West Acton.

West Acton

Yes, we've entered the 'West' zone - having previously moaned about all the 'Easts', 'Norths' and 'Souths', I'm now embarking on the final point of the compass - and the list of stations with 'West' in their name is not a short one...

...Unlike my visit to West Acton, which is very short indeed.

I've been in this area before, since North Ealing tube station is only just up the road from here, so there isn't really all that much to discover.

The local 'greasy spoon'....

I mentioned on my visit to North Ealing that the area here is very popular with the Japanese community, and that's very obvious from the collection of shops, cafés and estate agents outside the station.

Japanese Supermarket


Japanese Estate Agent

But other than these, there's very little to say about the place. It's a reasonably pretty, well-kept conservation area, and I'm sure it's a lovely place to live - if you happen to be a Japanophile - but not especially interesting to visit.

Entering the conservation area...

Very neat... if a little dull...

So, after little more than 15 or 20 minutes here, I head on to my next stop.

***
My next stop is Westbourne Park - a station on both the Circle Line, and the Hammersmith & City Line.

This too is a relatively quick journey - just a short hop to White City on the Central Line then a brief walk to Wood Lane to get the train to Westbourne Park. (All 'W' stations you'll notice - why, oh, why am I being so strict about this alphabetical business? I could have crossed off another couple of stations there!)

As I reach the elevated platform at Wood Lane to wait for my train north, I'm confronted with the sobering sight of one of London's most recently noted (though for the most tragic and horrific of reasons) landmarks.

Grenfell Tower

The tower block whose name - Grenfell Tower - is now known to the world, has been here for years of course, and I must have seen it many times as I've journeyed from this station.


Monument to the
Victims
But the fire that ripped through it on the night of the 14th June this year has left such a blackened shell of a building that it stands out against the sky like a giant tomb-stone. And of course, that's pretty much what it is.

There are still many victims of the fire yet to be found and - if at all possible - identified from the a 24-storey residential block, and the causes and ramifications of the tragedy are continuing to breed anger, frustration and resentment among the survivors and their families.

Though some facts have already, it seems, been established and point to the non fire-retardant nature of the exterior cladding of the building as a main contributing factor - the enquiry into the tragedy will no doubt be a long and distressing one, and I can't think of anything to say here, which hasn't already been said many times already by other commentators far better informed than I am.

I do think, however, that there is a case - however strange it may sound - for preserving the remains of the tower exactly as they are (always assuming they can be made safe), especially if - as has been suggested - cost-cutting and poor fire safety provisions are in any way to blame.

It would certainly be a vivid reminder of the human cost of bureaucratic decisions.

***
At Westbourne Park there is, yet again, not all that much to see and do.

Westbourne Park

The A40 Westway passes overhead just to the north of the station, and a little further north the Grand Union Canal provides a little escape from the concrete and exhaust fumes of the roads above.


Grand Union Canal

Similarly, a reasonably sized park next to the canal is an area where the locals - whose idea it was to build the park in the first place - to relax and enjoy themselves.

Meanwhile Gardens

The park was built in derelict ground in the late 1970s by a group of locals fed up with the site of rubble and corrugated iron fencing, who obtained a grant from the council and set to work to transform the waste ground into the park that stands here today.

Foundation Stone

Originally the council only agreed for the area to be used as gardens 'for the meanwhile' - until they had finalised their own plans for development - but as it proved so popular, the park stayed, and the name 'Meanwhile Gardens' was adopted.

Aren't you a little old for that...?

There are several youngsters making use of the skate-board area in the middle of the park, and one person who is clearly not quite so young, who I presume is teaching them the fine arts of skate-boarding. Either that or he's finding it hard to accept that he may not be as young as he used to be...

Homes along the canal

I leave the park at one of its northern exits and walk back eastwards along the canal to the main road, from which I head back to the station - after a brief but pleasant visit - and make my way onwards.

***
West Brompton is next and - once again - this is an area I've skirted the fringes of on a previous visit.

West Brompton

I suppose it's inevitable at this stage of the journey - which is effectively just a case of 'joining the dots' between all the stations I've previously crossed off my list.

In this case the nearby station I've already visited is Earls Court, just around the corner, and the eponymous exhibition centre I photographed on that occasion has long been demolished.

Which leaves me with the Brompton Cemetery as the main 'attraction' of this particular locale.

How very cheery...

On my way there I'm accosted by an aging Australian gentleman, who - like me - is carrying a camera, and who asks if I am part of their 'Photo Walking Group'. Apparently they're missing someone and they can't start the walk - which is going to take in the cemetery - without their lost sheep.

I'm not altogether sorry to have to disappoint him, and I take the opportunity - while he continues to look for the wayward photographer - of getting ahead of his group so as to avoid having half a dozen obtrusive photographers getting in the way of all my atmospheric graveyard shots.

Brompton Cemetery

The cemetery is one of the so-called 'Magnificent Seven' private (as opposed to parish church owned) cemeteries established in the 19th Century to alleviate overcrowding in the smaller graveyards. The other six are - Kensal Green, West Norwood, Highgate, Abney Park, Nunhead and Tower Hamlets.

Some of the 35,000 monuments

There are over 35,000 monuments in the cemetery, ranging from simple headstones to lavish mausoleums and - if you have the time to look for them - there are several noted personages buried here, including Emmeline Pankhurst and .

R.I.P.

I wander around for a brief time, but don't, unfortunately, have time to locate all the famous names on the gravestones.

I do marvel at the extent some people will go to show off their wealth - even after death. Some of the mausoleums and family vaults are practically buildings in their own right and must have cost a pretty packet when they were built - to the annoyance, no doubt, of the people hoping to inherit from the deceased.


Impressed?.... Me neither.

Personally, I prefer some of the simpler monuments, and though I'm not generally a fan of the weeping angel motif, I do find one or two of the stone figures here rather atmospheric, tucked as they are among the greenery.


Simple and Serene.


Along the road from the cemetery (and actually closer to Earls Court Station than to West Brompton) is the former home of the famous children's author, Beatrix Potter.

Or, so at least, I'm led to believe.

At first I have some trouble locating the site - despite having the exact address - thanks to the curiously confusing geography of the street in question.

Bolton Gardens (for such is the street I'm looking for) is - according to the map - a road running eastwards off the Earls Court Road.

As I turn up this from the Old Brompton Road and walk northwards, however, I cannot seem to see any street sign of that name. I pass Wetherby Mews and then Bramham Gardens and am more than a little puzzled - as Bolton Gardens should, if the map is anything to go by, be between the two.

It's only when I turn on my heels and head south again, that the mystery is (partially at least) solved.

It would appear that Bramham Gardens is only Bramham Gardens on one side of the street - on the other it is in fact the street I'm looking for; Bolton Gardens.

Ah, so that's where you've hidden it...

Of course it is. I mean, why wouldn't it be?

The fact that you only discover this if - like me - you happen to turn round and see the sign on the south side of street, as opposed to the one on the north side (which makes no mention of Bolton Gardens whatsoever) is, I suppose, just one of those quaint little idiosyncrasies that London is so fond of throwing at the unwary traveller.

Not that the fun stops there. Oh no.

Having, as I assume, found Bolton Gardens, I wander along it looking for number 2 - the erstwhile home of Ms Potter.

But the last (or first, if you prefer) house on this stretch of road is number 16.

Huh?!?!?

Aaahhhh - the numbering (and the street) goes round the corner! How could I not have suspected as much? Oh, and they go round the next corner too, so that I'm almost doubling back on myself! What fun!

Did she, did she really... well bully for her...

In fact, the house I'm looking for no longer actually stands, but was (according to the plaque on the wall) formerly located on the site of what is nowadays a Primary School...

...which stands on the Old Brompton Road.

I give up.

***
Next it's on to what I had planned to be my final stop of the day - West Croydon.

Given how little time I've spent in each location so far, however, it may well be possible to squeeze in an extra station before the end of the day. We shall see...

West Croydon - as a quick glance at the tube map will show you - is somewhat out on a limb, geographically speaking and looks to be a long trek to get to from West Brompton.

In reality, however, there are several options for me in terms of the routes I could take.

Firstly I could take a couple of tube trains to Canada Water and then the Overground from there to West Croydon. Alternatively I could take the Overground all the way from West Brompton (though this would involve changing at Clapham Junction, and again at Surrey Quays, in order to head south).

But in the end I plump for neither of these, and in fact settle for a method of transport I've not yet used at all on this journey - the Tram.

This is largely because, being a relatively new addition to the tube map (June 2016) though not to the London transport system (May 2000) it doesn't actually appear on the copy of the map on which I'm basing my alphabetical list of stations (December 2013). And so, in the ordinary course of events, I wouldn't get to see any of the stations along its length - which is a shame (though not - I should say - enough of one to make me start my journey over to include them all) because some of them sound rather charming.

Dundonald Road, Phipps Bridge, Sandilands, Gravel Hill, Elmers End... It's as though they'd all been lifted straight from an Enid Blyton story.

Be that as it may, it seems an opportunity not to be missed, and though they're not officially on my list, I can at least give them a nod, in passing as it were, on my way to West Croydon.

The tram leaves from Wimbledon (another 'W' of course!) so I head there first from West Brompton and manage to catch a tram within a few minutes of my arrival.

It's a sedate journey over to West Croydon, and not an unpleasant one. There's just something about trams...... I've always enjoyed travelling on them in Europe (where they seem to have enjoyed uninterrupted popularity, unlike the UK, where it's only in recent years that they seem to be making a comeback). The more the merrier, I say.

West Croydon

West Croydon station is very close to the town centre, although this isn't particularly glowing recommendation, as the town centre isn't all that much to write home about.

I've seen many town centres on my travels, and there are - of course - several features common to all of them. The pedestrianised areas, the shopping centres, the public benches, the occasional hanging baskets on lamp-posts, the coffee shops, banks and mobile phone shops...

Nevertheless, you can usually tell whether the local council has gone to that extra bit of effort to spruce it up a bit and make it stand out - proudly - from the urban hoi polloi.... or not.

Croydon is, I'm afraid, in the latter camp.

A Tale Of Two Shopping Centres
There's nothing wrong with it per se - it's just all a bit... 'meh'.

I had perhaps been led to expect greater things, since the word 'Croydon' apparently comes from the Saxon 'croeas deanas' which means 'valley of the crocuses', and if that doesn't conjure up a rural idyll I don't know what does...

I wander southwards down the road called North End, which is a pedestrianised street between Croydon's two shopping centres - the 'Whitgift Centre' and 'Centrale'.

It's the usual collection - and clearly popular with the locals judging by the crowds of shoppers bustling around me, even on a Tuesday afternoon - but nothing very inspiring.

At the bottom end of the street is an older looking building, on which a sign tells me that it was formerly 'The Hospital Of The Holy Trinity'.

The Hospital Of The Holy Trinity

What the building is used for today, I'm not quite sure.

I'm also mildly bemused by the specificity with which it offers to help 'certain' (but presumably not all) 'maymed, poore, needie or [most amusingly to today's ears] impotent people'. I mean, how did they choose which 'certain' people to help?

The history of the Hospital
Incidentally, the founder of the hospital was one John Whitgift - Archbishop of Canterbury from 1583 to his death in 1604. He taught Francis Bacon at Cambridge (before his tenure as Archbishop), and was present at Elizabeth I's deathbed and the coronation of James I. How proud he would be to know that his name is immortalised as that of a shopping centre...

Another name, on another shop, has a rather more recent and unfortunate history.

House Of Reeves at Reeves Corner

The old, family firm of the 'House Of Reeves' - a furniture store established in 1867 - would probably, like the Grenfell Tower, have remained unknown to the general British consciousness were it not for a devastating fire that destroyed one of its main buildings.

Unlike Grenfell, however, this fire was started deliberately - and took place during the rioting that hit various areas of London in August 2011, and spread to other cities in the following days.

The business had been an established part of the Croydon centre for so long that the junction it sat on was officially known as Reeves Corner.

Today the site of the building that was destroyed is a fenced-off gravelled area, planted with trees.

Reeves Corner

***
Well, it's still early enough in the day for me to squeeze in that extra station I wondered about earlier.

Westferry

Not that Westferry promises much more to see or do than any of the other places I've visited.

It's on the DLR between Limehouse and Poplar stations, and is in the Limehouse district, rather than (as might be supposed) a district called Westferry. In fact it gets its name from the road it sits on -  Westferry Road which (along with East Ferry Road) was one of two roads leading to the ferry which ran from the southern tip of the Isle Of Dogs.

Westferry Road

The only 'sight' to see in the area, as far as I can tell, is a church called St Anne's, which apparently has the tallest church clock tower in London.

I put the word 'sight' in inverted commas because, unfortunately, seeing the tower is well-nigh impossible thanks to the high walls, chained gates and tall trees that surround it.

I manage to get a couple of photos through a gap in the trees by standing in the carpark of a Community Transport depot next door, but even the best of them is hardly the most awe-inspiring of pictures. (I discover later, from the church's website, that the churchyard is currently remaining under lock and key thanks to the anti-social behaviour of some local yobs - what a wonderful bunch we are sometimes...)

St Anne's Church Tower.

The clock, and indeed the church, are closely linked with the area's maritime history. The clock was designed to be seen by the ships on the river and the top of the tower carries a golden ball, which designates it as a 'Trinity House Sea Mark' as marked on Thames navigation charts.

In the carpark from which I take my photo of the church I notice a mini-bus with the unlikely looking name 'Ethel' printed across its bonnet.

'Ethel' the Mini-bus

Things become a little clearer when I see that, on the side of the mini-bus, is printed 'In memory of Gretchen Franklin' - though my younger readers may need a little explanation.

Gretchen Franklin was an actress who in later years played the character 'Ethel Skinner' in the soap opera 'Eastenders', appearing in its first ever episode in 1985 and off and on up to the year 2000. Having long been a generous supporter of many charities, she left - following her death in 2005 aged 94 - several legacies, including one to the St. Hilda's East Community Centre, who used it to purchase the eponymous mini-bus.

On which heart-warming note it's time to call an end to another day's travelling. More 'West' stations next time, but until then, toodle-pip!

Tuesday, 18 July 2017

'The Great Gig In The Sky'

Day 93
 
Watford - Watford High Street - Watford Junction - Wembley Central - Wembley Park
 
A day spent in the top left hand corner of the tube map today, as I travel to five stations concentrated in just two locations - Watford and Wembley.

Before I start though, a word or two about station names and locations.

You might assume - presented (as I am today) with a station called simply 'Watford' - that this is the main station for the town of that name, and that therefore it will be fairly central and close to all the local points of interest.

Similarly, the name 'Wembley Central', must by definition be in the centre of Wembley and one would expect the most interesting things in the area to be fairly close by.

You would, of course, be wrong in both cases.

In the case of the town of Watford, which has three stations, only one of them can be considered in any way 'central', and this is the second on my list - Watford High Street. In Wembley, neither of the main points of interest (the famous Stadium and its next-door neighbour the Arena) are anywhere near the 'Central' station and are instead closer to the final stop on my list - Wembley Park.

Which - frankly - is fairly typical of the sort of nonsense I've come to expect from the Underground network.

***
Anyway, enough of my quibbles - on with the day's travels.

I start at the aforementioned Watford Station, which lies about a mile to the west of the town centre. It is the terminus of the Watford branch of the Metropolitan Line and was built in the arts and crafts style of the 1920s.


Watford

Being some way out of town the area surrounding the station is mainly residential, apart from to the north where there is a large park and nature reserve called Cassiobury Park.

Croquet Lawn

This was once part of the grounds of Cassiobury House, which was the ancestral home of the Earls of Essex from the time of Henry VIII. The house was demolished in 1927 but a large part of the grounds had already been sold to the council in 1909.

Cassiobury Park

It's a big place - over 190 acres - and, as well as the usual wide open spaces and children's play-areas, has some interesting bits of artwork:

Carved artwork...
...finally answering the age old question
of what bears do in the wood






















I head to the western edge of the park, where it meets the River Gade.

River Gade

This is one of the three rivers meeting at Rickmansworth, which I encountered on my trip there not so long ago, though it has its source in Buckinghamshire and passes through Hemel Hempstead and Kings Langley on its way south through Hertfordshire.

Another river view

Its waters were used here in Cassiobury Park both to power water mills and also to enable watercress to be cultivated.

And that's pretty much it for this part of Watford - time to head to the two other stations here, starting with Watford High Street, which I hope will prove to have a bit more going on around it...

***
The station is actually on Lower High Street, with the original High Street running north from it. However, since the latter is largely dominated by the enormous INTU Watford Shopping Centre, the station's location does at least give it a bit of breathing space.

Watford High Street

The shopping centre here is run by the same company as that in Uxbridge, and the two towns feel very similar as I wander along the High Street. This isn't altogether surprising as both are in that amorphous stretch of commuter-belt suburbia known as 'Metro-Land'.

I head first to the south of the station, where there is a museum dedicated to all things Watfordian.

Watford Museum

Unfortunately, and rather par for the course on this journey (or so it seems to me) the museum is only open on limited days of the week, and I've arrived on one of the days it is firmly shut.


The High Street

Turning north again I head up to the High Street, which - despite the dominance of the shopping centre - does still have a reasonable supply of shops and cafés catering for the local crowds.

INTU Watford Shopping Centre Entrance

Hornet Sculpture


Again, there are some interesting pieces of public artwork dotted around the centre of town. The first of which is a giant insect, which seems an unnecessarily creepy thing to be looming over the innocent shoppers beneath.



However, the insect in question is a hornet, and is a reference to the nickname (The Hornets) of Watford FC, the local football team, famously supported (and at one point run) by singer Elton John.



A little further up the High Street is St Mary's Church, a mainly 15th Century building with a history that apparently goes back a lot further, making the church about 800 years old.

Face Sculpture near St Mary's Church

Here again are some interesting sculptures, though the significance of the four posts, each topped with a pair of back-to-back faces is sadly lost on me.

The final landmark I visit in the town centre is the Watford Palace Theatre.

Watford Palace Theatre

This is one of the few regional theatres which, as well as hosting touring productions from other companies, produces its own work, and has done for over 100 years. In the 1960s it was run by Jimmy Perry - actor and writer, and one half of the creative team (alongside David Croft) who wrote some of British televisions best known sit-coms, such as Dad's Army, It Ain't Half Hot Mum, and Hi Di Hi.

Then it's on to my final stop in Watford, and one station along the Overground Line to its terminus - Watford Junction.

Watford Junction
There's not an awful lot to say about either the station or its surroundings. The former is - as the name suggests - a reasonably busy interchange of various train lines - not just the Overground but also trains going to the midlands and the Caledonian Sleeper to Carlisle.

The latter - the surroundings - are mainly office blocks by the looks of things, and are as uniformly uninteresting as that suggests.

In fact the only real point of interest here is a rather colourful bus standing outside the station, waiting to take passengers onwards to one of the most popular tourist attractions of recent years - a place in stark contrast to the uninspiring surroundings here at the station.

Bus to the Harry Potter Studio Tour

The Harry Potter phenomenon - both books and films - has dominated the cultural landscape for the last twenty years. The original books captivated the imaginations of millions around the globe, and the subsequent film versions could easily have been a severe disappointment to the many fans.

However, thanks in large part to the watchful eye of author JK Rowling and the fantastic attention to detail of the film-makers, the movie versions did justice to the magical world that young Mr Potter inhabits, as a visit to the Harry Potter Studio Tour at Warner Bros Leavesden Studios will show.

Having been to the studios myself a couple of times already, I don't feel the need to see it again, but I can share with you a few of my photos from those visits, to whet your appetite should you be considering a trip their yourselves.


Costumes in the 'Great Hall'

















Text Book in Potion Class


















Gryffindor Common Room

















The main thought that crosses your mind as you wander around the sets and props is one of sheer disbelief at the amount of detailed work that has gone into making something that might only be seen for a split second of screen-time, if indeed it is seen at all.

For example, how many of you who have seen the films, will have noticed this fully illustrated copy of a Wizarding Comic lying around the Gryffindor Common Room? And yet it hat has been painstakingly created in such great detail that you feel sure it must have played an integral part in some scene or other.


'The Adventures Of Martin Miggs the Mad Muggle'

















Some of the hard work does, of course, make it onto the screen for more than a split-second, and features in some of the more memorable moments from the films...



Gringott's Bank
Vault Door
Weasleys' Wizard Wheezes












Tom Riddle's Grave
Hagrid Model










Hogwarts Model
Shop on Diagon Alley






























It's well worth a visit, whether or not you're a particular fan of the Harry Potter films, as it gives such an insight into what goes on behind the scenes of a feature film. On the other hand, you do have to put up with a certain amount of enforced geekery from the staff manning the main entrance and the (traditionally overpriced) gift shop at the end.

***
My next stop is Wembley Central, which - as I mentioned at the start of this post - is nowhere near the two major landmarks in the area - Wembley Stadium and Wembley Arena.

Wembley Central

Worse still, the High Road, on which it stands, is not the most salubrious of places to spend any time, despite some recent efforts to spruce it up a bit. The shops are fairly typical, though with rather more pawn-brokers and discount stores than in some wealthier places.

Wembley High Road

A new 'plaza' next to the station contains a few of the more well-known high street names, though even these are restricted to the Argos and TK Maxx type of establishment, rather than anything more upmarket.

So I stay only long enough to grab a bite to eat from the local branch of Costa Coffee, and head off as soon as practicable for my final stop of the day - Wembley Park.

Wembley Park

You can tell, just from the station entrance, that this is more like it.

Man Catching A Star - sculpture outside the station.
There's a 'grandness' about those steps, leading down to the pedestrianised 'Olympic Way', at the other end of which is the imposing structure of the world-famous stadium - and the whole area feels somehow cleaner and shinier than the High Road was.

Olympic Way - with Stadium at the end.

Of course, a lot of this is relatively new - not least the stadium itself, or at least, its current incarnation.

Wembley Stadium (Mark II)

The original stadium, with its twin towers, was opened in 1923 as the 'Empire Stadium'. It was built to house the British Empire Exhibition in 1924-25 though the first event to take place there was the FA cup final of 1923 - a fixture which was to take place at the venue every year following this.

It also hosted the 1966 World Cup - in which the England team were the victors for the first and, so far, only time. A memorial to that victory, and to one of its key players, captain Bobby Moore, stands outside the stadium.

Bobby Moore statue

The stadium has also become famous as a music venue, hosting concerts by every major band and singer from the worlds of pop and rock. Perhaps most spectacularly, it was the British venue for the 1985 Live Aid Concert - the 'Global Jukebox' - which, with its sister concert at the Philadelphia JFK Stadium, raised millions of pounds to help those affected by the Ethiopian famine of the mid 80s.

My own experience of concerts there is varied, but I think the one that stands out most in my mind, for personal reasons which shall become clear, is the "Zooropa" tour by U2, which I attended here on the 21st August 1993.

I was a fresh-faced student at the time, and a big fan of the band, so the opportunity to see them live was one I eagerly grasped, despite the relatively high cost of tickets. The show - as you might expect if you know anything about U2's live performances - was a huge extravaganza of lighting, video screens, special effects, costumes and guest appearances, as well as the music they were world-famous for.

However, the thing that makes it most memorable for me, is something that lasted barely 10 seconds, but 10 seconds during which I may - just may - have set a world record.

Let me explain...

Before the show got under way, as people were drifting into the stadium with their plastic pint pots full of beer and trying to grab the best spots from which to see the band, a number of small booths dotted around the stadium were quietly videoing whoever wanted to pop in and say something.

Called 'Video Confessionals' - they were designed to film the concert-goer's confessions, the best/worst/most amusing of which were to be edited together and shown in the break after the main concert and before the band came back for the encore.

Being something of a wag, and not having anything I much to confess (or that I was willing to, at any rate) I joined the queue to the booth with something a little different in mind.

Of course, I had to frame it in such a way as to sound like a confession, so I chose my wording very carefully. This is what I said:

"My confession is that I've always wanted to break the world record for the largest number of people to say the word 'f**k' simultaneously. So here goes - one, two, three....!"

The cameraman gave a little chuckle as he filmed me, so I thought that at least I'd given him a laugh, if nothing else. However, you can imagine my shock as my own face was - later in the evening - projected onto 80 foot high video screens either side of the stage, and my message played to the gathered thousands.

Not only that, but they all did it! After my count of three, the entire audience (of 70-odd thousand) all shouted the specified expletive with gusto.

Of course, I have no idea if such a World Record exists, nor whether I managed to break it. And since no-one from the Guinness Book of Records was on hand to corroborate the event, and the exact number of people who were there and who said the word is debatable, the point is somewhat academic.

Nevertheless, I like to hope that the rest of the crowd, as well as myself, feel that they were part of something special and collaborative that night - and not just indulging me in a bit of puerile student-y showing off...

The old stadium was demolished in the early 2000s and its replacement opened in 2007. Rubble from the original was used to build the artificial hills at Northala Fields in Northolt, which have become a landmark of the A40 out of London.

***
Across the 'Olympic Way' is the second of Wembley's two venues - the Arena.

Construction in front of Wembley Arena

I say 'across the way', but as you can just about see from the bottom of the picture above, the way in question is currently in the process of being dug up - and the resulting construction of several blocks of flats running the length of Olympic Way will effectively divide the Stadium from the Arena like a modern day Berlin Wall, and surround the two iconic venues with concrete as far as the eye can see.

The Arena

It's a shame, as the two buildings really need a bit of space around them to get the full impact of their architecture - but such is the way of the world these days...

My visit to the Arena is being made somewhat more personalised thanks to the fact that I happen to be jolly good chums with someone who works there, and who has offered to take me around some of the less publicly accessible parts of the venue.


King Jon at work...

'King Jon' (as he prefers, for reasons of his own, to be known), works in the Box Office, and is always ready to greet the paying public with a cheery smile and a friendly 'hello'.

... and the fruits of his labours.


He has asked the building manager to show me two points of interest, the first being the view from the roof of the building.

Up on the roof - looking towards Harrow On The Hill

'King Jon' - despite his lack of any head for heights - accompanies us up the tall and rather precarious feeling ladder that is tucked away through a door behind the topmost rank of seating.


King Jon being very brave

While I enjoy the view my friend stays well back from the edge and grips the nearest hand-hold so firmly that his knuckles turn as white as the shirt he is wearing.


Fountain in the plaza in front of the Arena


I have no such vertiginous feelings and get some great shots of the plaza below me and of the Stadium next door (before the view is permanently obscured by tower blocks).


The Stadium in all its glory

Then we head back down the ladder, and further, into the depths of the basement beneath the building, which was - in a former life - something very different...

The Arena, like the Stadium, is both a sporting and a concert venue, though these days hosts more of the latter than the former.

When originally built however, this was most definitely not the case, and few concert-goers these days probably realise they are tapping (or perhaps more likely stomping) their feet on a floor which sits above a former Olympic sized swimming pool.

The Empire Pool (as the Arena was originally called) was built for the 1934 British Empire Games - the forerunner of the modern day Commonwealth Games - and was also used for the 1948 London Olympic Games.

The pool itself is now - as I have mentioned - in the basement of the Arena building, and is not particularly well lit... or accessible.

However, having clambered under air-duct pipes and through miniscule hatchways, I stand beneath the floor of the Arena and look across the extremely dimly-lit former pool.

The Empire Pool - no really, it's a swimming pool, honest...


Impressive huh?

Ok - the lighting does mean you can't actually tell what it is from the photograph above, but I assure you that 'in the flesh' the shape and size of the pool is more obvious.

Other signs of the Arena's former use are more easily seen - including the depth markers printed on what were formerly the sides of the pool, and the glass 'portholes' in its walls, which - owing to the lack of electric lighting when it was first built - allowed natural light to illuminate the pool from the sides.

Depth Markers (the numbers, top right) and portholes.

Back upstairs, perhaps sensing that the basement didn't quite convey the former glory of the pool as well as it could have done, King Jon shows me some photos in one of the Arena's dining areas, which do at least prove that there was a pool here once.

Construction of the pool - with the portholes visible in the sides.

The pool was closed at the outbreak of WWII and only re-opened for the Olympic Games in 1948. But its days as a swimming pool were over, and after the Olympics it was permanently converted to a floored sports venue and, later, music venue.

The pool in use



NME poll winners'
concert memorabilia
It's as the latter that it is now best known, and some of the top names in Rock history have played here, not least the Beatles, who played in the 1960s at the New Musical Express poll-winners' concert.




Guitar signed by the
members of Duran Duran
Memorabilia from past performers is on display in the main entrance of the Arena, and includes not just programmes, photos and back-stage passes, but also instruments used by some of the groups who played here.











And that brings my personal tour of the Arena to a close.


A concrete slab



I leave the building - passing under what was presumably the equivalent of a foundation stone for the original building, but which now appears to have been hung on the wall as a piece of decoration - and make my way home at the end of another successful day's Wombling.

Next up we begin our foray into the many 'West' stations - what larks!

Until then!