Tuesday, 28 February 2017

'Dancing Queen'

Day 73

Queensbury - Queen's Park - Queens Road, Peckham - Queensway

Four stations, and another letter crossed off the list!

That at least is the plan for today - and I'm reasonably confident of achieving it, since the route between them is, for once, relatively uncomplicated.
 
I'm on to the letter 'Q', which - as any Scrabble player knows - is one of the more obscure letters when it comes to the English Language, and even more so when it comes to English names. In fact, all four stations today share a common theme in their nomenclature - each beginning with the word 'Queen-' and three out of the four are named after the same monarch, Queen Victoria.
 
The fourth (or rather, since it's top of my list today, the first) is not named after any specific Queen at all, and might easily have had a different name altogether, as you'll see.
 
The station in question is Queensbury, on the Jubilee Line, and it's up in North West London, about halfway between Harrow and Edgware.
 
Queensbury
 
 
The station was opened in 1934 as part of the Metropolitan Line, between Kingsbury and Canons Park and until that point there was no such place as Queensbury.
 
In an unusual move, the rail company ran a competition in a local newspaper to choose a name for the new station, and the winning (if somewhat predictable) entry was Queensbury - to go with its next door neighbour, Kingsbury.
 
These days (as we've seen in recent news items) things might have been very different. Not only was the Polar Research Ship RSS David Attenborough very nearly called 'Boaty McBoatface' as the result of a similar competition, but only this week, NASA requested suggestions for the names of seven newly discovered - and possibly life-sustaining - planets.
 
Suggestions for these have included:
 
'Far From Trump 1,

Mast with roundel,
outside the station
Far From Trump 2,
Far From Trump 3... (etc)';

'This one,
That one,
The other one... (etc)'
 
and my personal favourite:
 
'What,
If,
Their,
People,
Already,
Named,
Them'
 
No-one seems to have suggested 'Planety McPlanetface' as yet (though it's only a matter of time) and it is of course too late for Queensbury to have been given the name 'Stationy McStationface'. On the other hand, there are several new stations planned for the tube network over the coming few years, so if they run this sort of competition again, you never know...
 
Anyway, back to Queensbury...

Queensbury Station Parade and Green
The station sits at one end of a long stretch of neat, bullet-shaped green space - lined on either side by the several shops and restaurants of the Queensbury Station  Parade. Judging from the names above many of these establishments, there's clearly a thriving Asian community her, though the faces I see emerging from the tube station are very much a mixed bunch.

The mast, and shops beyond.
There's not a huge amount to see here other than the shops, though these are situated pleasantly enough, so I take a quick wander to the nearby Queensbury Park, to the south west of the station.

Sadly, this is not much more than a big football pitch with a few bedraggled looking trees dotted around, so I assume I've seen all Queensbury has to offer and head off to my next destination.

***
At Queen's Park (not altogether surprisingly, given the name) is another green open space - this time with much more to offer.

Queen's Park

I'll come to the park in a little while, but first, the station itself, which is on the unusually named Salusbury Road and is on both the Bakerloo and Overground Lines.

Salusbury was originally an Anglo-Welsh family name, and it seems that the road here was created and named during the reign of Henry VIII, when Welshmen were favoured at court.

The station does, this time, take its name from an existing area in north west London, which in turn takes its name from the local park, which is itself named after Queen Victoria.

Entrance to Queen's Park

The park is just around the corner from the station, and was originally the site of an agricultural show attended by Victoria and Albert. The locals campaigned to keep it as a public space, and the park was officially opened in 1886.

The area (though not the park itself) is also the original home of Queens Park Rangers football club (though for some reason they've dropped the apostrophe). They took their name from the area since most of the players came from here, but in fact they had no permanent home and played in several different grounds in Kensal Rise, Brondesbury, Kilburn, Wormwood Scrubs and others, before settling in Shepherd's Bush in 1917. Perhaps it's this itinerant nature that gave rise to the name 'rangers'...


Queen's Park
Curious Carving...















I spend a pleasant half hour or so in the park - enjoying the open space, the play-areas, the band-stand and even the sight of a local artist stood at his easel - not something you see everywhere in London.


Portrait of the artist...

When I set off on my travels this morning I knew that today's blog could really use only one of two songs as its title, given the names of the stations I'd be visiting. These were, of course, Killer Queen and Dancing Queen.
The 'queen' bit was obvious, but how to justify either of the other two words?

Well, 'killer' seemed to be rejected outright, since I expected neither to meet one on the journey (though you never know, given what happened at Bound's Green) nor for the journey to prove a 'killer' itself, being fairly straightforward.

'Dancing' on the other hand seemed equally unlikely. Anyone who knows me will tell you that I personally don't do the 'D-word', and I could hardly expect to encounter a troupe of ballet-dancers or Tiller Girls on my travels...

So I'm afraid I'm going to have to stretch your imaginations a little, by pointing out the chap I spot next to the band-stand, doing Tai-Chi.

Bandstand
Now, I know I'm probably going to offend lots of martial arts practitioners, who will no doubt tell me that each of the moves is actually a highly efficient and elegant method of killing a man at a hundred paces, but you have to admit, it does look - from the outside - like a slow-mo version of John Travolta and Uma Thurman's dance scene in Pulp Fiction...

Anyway, time's moving on, and so must I...

***
And it's way across the other side of town this time. So far I've been in the top left-hand corner of London, but now I'm off to Peckham, in the bottom right.

Queens Road Peckham (another dropped apostrophe for some reason) is on the Overground Line to Clapham Junction and is just a couple of stops south of Canada Water.

Queens Road Peckham

I was last in Peckham only a couple of weeks ago when I visited Peckham Rye station, and this is the next station along from there.

The road from which it takes its name was originally called Deptford Lane but was renamed in honour of Queen Victoria, who would use it as her route to the Royal Naval School in New Cross. Today it has a few shops and eateries, as is usual around a station, but is otherwise fairly non-descript.

Running north from this road however, and immediately to the west of the station, is Asylum Road - clearly a name which suggests an interesting history of some kind...

I walk up the road and do indeed find a building (or rather, collection of buildings) which used to be called the Licensed Victuallers' Benevolent Institution Asylum.


The 'Asylum'

However, this was not a home for the insane. The word asylum was used here in its sense of a 'place of refuge', as these were all Alms-Houses - or in effect, retirement homes - for former pub landlords fallen on hard times.

Alms-Houses were a preferable alternative to the workhouse, or worse, and many charitable bodies built communities such as this in the age before benefits and social care.

Just down the road from the 'asylum', in the front garden of an ordinary looking terraced house, is a bit of modern day philanthropy, thanks to someone going by the name of 'Peckhambird'.


Peckhambird Library
Firstly, there's the 'Peckhambird Library' - a little box at the front of the garden, filled with books, which exhorts you to 'take a book - give a book', and reminds us that reading is 'one of the most marvellous adventures anyone can have'.

Then there's the chalk-board resting against a post in the garden. A quick look at Peckhambird's Twitter feed (@Peckhambird) reveals that this carries a different message every day. The messages are the sort of inspirational positive thoughts that might, in other circumstances, be considered twee. (Today's is 'Take Control', and previous messages have included: 'Let it all go, see what stays' and 'If you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change')

Somehow though, the fact that the person living here has taken the time and trouble to write these messages, purely for the benefit of people who happen to pass by, gives them  a greater value as far as I'm concerned.

Finally, there's a poster in the window which, I think, sums up all the messages very neatly, and is something we could all do with being reminded of at times:

'It's OK to be you'

Quite right.

***
Having had my inner critic given a good talking to by a stranger in Peckham, I move on once again to my fourth and final stop of the day - Queensway.

Queensway (the station)

Way back in the mists of time, when I was still on the letter 'B', I visited another station on the road called Queensway (after which my last station is, of course, named) - Bayswater.

Queensway (the street)

As I mentioned then, the street is north of Hyde Park (or more accurately, Kensington Gardens) and used to be called Black Lion Lane before being renamed in honour of (you guessed it) Queen Victoria, and becoming Queen's Road. For some reason this name was later changed to the current one: Queensway.

The curious thing is that, while the station called Bayswater is on the road called Queensway, the station called Queensway is in the area known as Bayswater...

Another thing I mentioned on my last visit was that, other than a collection of shops selling the sort of gaudy souvenirs designed to relieve the unwary tourist of their hard-earned cash, there's not much of interest on the road outside the station. The only thing of real note here is hidden behind an unassuming entrance a few doors up from the station.

This is the 'Queens Skate Dine Bowl' - one of London's six permanent ice rinks.

Queens Ice Rink
In recent years 'pop-up' ice rinks have rather taken over during the winter months, with everywhere from Hampton Court to the Natural History Museum providing us with the opportunity to look like a newly born Bambi for half an hour.

As something of a fan of skating in my younger years, however, I occasionally visited rinks in Oxford, Richmond and here on Queensway - to enjoy the chilly pastime all year round.

It's been a while since my last visit to an ice rink - and that was to one of the aforementioned 'pop-up' variety - so I'm tempted to have a go while I'm here. But wisdom prevails (given that I've still got lots to see in Kensington Gardens, and won't be much good with a broken ankle) and I head south across Bayswater Road and into the park.

Kensington Gardens

Kensington Gardens is the expanse of green stretching from Kensington Palace in the west, to the West Carriage Drive (the road that cuts through the park) in the east. It is, however, considered by many to be simply the western half of Hyde Park - not without validity, since this was once exactly what it was.

Henry VIII created the park (including the Kensington Gardens part) as a hunting park in 1536. Later, in 1728, Queen Caroline (wife of George II) sequestered the western part of the park and had it landscaped into a more formal private garden for the royal residence at Kensington Palace. Nowadays, the two are connected once more, though they still have fences separating them and have different opening hours.

The Palace has been the home of various royals over the years, most recently the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate to you and me) and William's parents Charles and Diana.

Since Diana's death a number of areas in the park have been set aside or renamed as memorials to her - and the first of these I encounter is the 'Diana, Princess Of Wales Memorial Playground'.

Playground

Elfin Oak
As well as the usual climbing frames and slides (though with more than a nod to the Peter Pan stories of J.M. Barrie, who lived nearby and set several of his stories here) there is the huge stump of a 900 year old oak tree, intricately carved with the figures of tiny elves, going about their various businesses.

This is the Elfin Oak, and originally came from another royal park - Richmond Park.

It was moved here in 1928, and over the next two years the various figures - each with their own individual character and story - were carved by the artist Ivor Innes.


Sadly, though not altogether unexpectedly, the tree has been the victim of much vandalism over the years, and is now encased in a cage which rather spoils the enjoyment of it. Nevertheless I try and get a couple of decent photos through the bars.

An elf, doing elf-y things, with other elves.
Further south is the 'Round Pond', though any similarity between this 'pond' and the kind of thing you'd plop a couple of goldfish into in your back garden is entirely coincidental.

The Round Pond
It's actually not round at all, but rectangular - about 200x150m in size and 5m deep in places. Swans, geese and ducks congregate at the water's edge, hoping to be fed by the tourists, and are generally not disappointed.

And finally we come to the palace itself.

Kensington Palace and Queen Victoria


Queen Victoria
In front of it is the queen (or rather her image in marble), with whom we've become so familiar today - Victoria.



Though still being used as a royal residence, it is - like Buckingham Palace and others - now also open to the public as a tourist attraction. I'm not overly fussed about going inside though, and would much rather spend another half hour or so wandering in the fresh air of the park.





And that's exactly what I do next - so that's where I'll leave you for today, and I look forward to kicking off a new letter with you very shortly.

Bye for now...

Tuesday, 21 February 2017

'Water Under The Bridge'

Day 72
 
Pontoon Dock - Poplar - Preston Road - Prince Regent - Pudding Mill Lane - Putney Bridge
 
Almost there! Just a few more 'P's to go - can I fit them all in today?
 
Well, very possibly - because although there are six of them, four of the remaining 'P' stations are in fairly close proximity to one another, on the DLR network.
 
On the other hand, the remaining two are on the other side of London - and one of them is unhelpfully nestled between the second and fourth stations, alphabetically speaking - so there's still a lot of mileage to be covered.
 
It's never straightforward is it...?
 
Anyway, I start with a station called Pontoon Dock.
 
As I have bemoaned many times before, the DLR network seems to have an aversion to letting anyone outside the stations know where they are. This annoying habit is continued today as, yet again, there is no sign bearing the name of the station outside Pontoon Dock, so I have to climb back up the stairs to the platform for my photograph.
 
Pontoon Dock
 
That done, I return to ground level and have a look around. Pontoon Dock is in the east of the area called Silvertown, which is where you go if you want to see a real-life personification of the term 'Industrial Landscape'.
 
It's all factories and warehouses, and if there's any spare space between the corrugated walls and roller-shutters, it's buzzing with construction workers planning and building another factory to fill it.
 
One thing Pontoon Dock does have, which while still being an 'industrial' piece of architecture does at least manage to have a certain aesthetic quality to it, is the Thames Flood Barrier. It lies to the south of the station, and is reached through an area of greenery called Thames Barrier Park, which includes some 'themed' topiary...
 
Thames Barrier Park
Water Feature
Apart from its topiary, the park is fairly nondescript - having a café and a few benches in an otherwise plainly grassed area - but it leads to a riverside path, from which you get an excellent view of the Barrier itself.
 
The Thames Barrier
The Barrier came into operation in 1984 as a way of combatting the threat of flooding from storm surges and high tides, to which London is vulnerable.

Its vulnerability comes from a combination of factors (apart from the basic tidal nature of the Thames), which include the steady rise of water levels generally, thanks to Global Warming, and - more surprisingly - the fact that Britain is gradually tilting, so that the South East is getting lower than the North West.

This tilt is the result of something called Post-Glacial Rebound, which basically means that the areas in the North West which had a greater weight of ice on them during the Ice Age, are now 'rebounding' - and therefore rising - now that the ice has melted. Britain is effectively a see-saw, with the fulcrum on a line between Aberystwyth and Whitby, and someone heavy just got off the

Obviously this process, like all geological phenomena, doesn't happen overnight - it's not like we're all about to slide off the bottom of Kent into the Channel - but it's certainly something I'd not previously been aware of.

Anyway, back to the Barrier.

Barrier Pier - with a gate wheel visible to the left.
At first glance, you might think that all the interesting stuff happens in the almost futuristic looking silver towers that span the river, but in fact these are just the piers, between which are the gates themselves. These gates are effectively semi-circular 'drums' attached to wheels at either end as can be seen here:

A Gate rotated between two piers so that water can flow
beneath it - this is the 'Maintenance' Position




The above position is only ever used for maintenance - the normal working positions are shown here.

The gates sit below the bed of the river and allow water to flow over them during normal conditions.

During a flood or surge, the gates are closed so that they form a dam against the incoming tide.

They are normally rotated a little further so that some water can flow underneath the gate, rather than being blocked completely.


The Barrier was originally intended to be operated perhaps 2-3 times a year. Currently it is operating at least twice as often as that prediction, though it should still offer relatively good protection to London until at least 2070.

***
My next stop is - in DLR terms - just around the corner.

Poplar
Poplar is one of the major junction points on the DLR Network (along with Canning Town and Stratford) and trains from here go in every direction - North to Stratford, South to Lewisham, West to Bank, and East to Beckton or Woolwich.

Again, there's no sign outside the station, and again, there's very little to see here other than the station itself.

While not being quite as industrial as Pontoon Dock, Poplar is still a location that would come fairly low down a list of places to visit 'for the scenery'.

The station sits in the shadow of the mass of skyscrapers that form the financial centre of Canary Wharf, to the south, and to the north are the many residential tower-blocks of Poplar itself.

View to Canary Wharf from Poplar Station

Like Pontoon Dock, however, it does have one landmark that might, on a good day, just tempt you to visit - assuming you like fish that is.


Billingsgate Fish Market


For this is the home of Billingsgate Fish Market... or at least it has been since 1982.

Before that it was located, not surprisingly, at Billingsgate Wharf (by London Bridge) and there is still a building there called 'Old Billingsgate' (where as it happens, once a year, a Whisky Tasting Festival is held - and where, once a year, having visited the Whisky Festival, I too need to be held, in order to stand upright).

Being a working fish market, accepting deliveries from harbours the length and breadth of Britain, it's at its busiest in the small hours of the morning - between 4.00 and 8.00am.

And while I might, conceivably, see the latter of these two hours, the chances of me being up and about, out of my bed, and on the other side of London in time to see the market in full swing are smaller than the chances of Donald Trump winning Feminist Of The Year.

What I can do is give you a potted history (or potted shrimp history, if you prefer) of the market.

The original market in the 16th and 17th Centuries was an open air one, which then moved into the building at Old Billingsgate in 1877. It moved to its current location in 1982, as mentioned above, but prior to that it had been the workplace of - among others - George Orwell and the Kray twins.

In its original location, it was a City Of London run enterprise, and despite now being on land owned by Tower Hamlets, this is still the case. The City Of London Corporation pays a nominal rent to Tower Hamlets Council for the use of the land, although under the terms of their rather unusual agreement the rent is designated as 'the gift of one fish'.

So there you go - two down, four to go - and now it's a trip across town towards Harrow, and my next destination.

***

Preston Road

Preston Road is, sadly, just another of those stations that sit between rather more interesting neighbours, and seem to have no reason for being there, other than to break up the journey.

The road from which it takes its name is in North West London, between Wembley and Harrow, and has little, other than a few shops and cafés to interest anyone other than a local.

The uninspiring Preston Road shops
It takes just ten minutes for me to walk up and down the road, and to accept that my stay here will be a brief one. All to the good in terms of completing the letter P by the end of the day, but disappointing in all other respects.

***
And it doesn't get much better at my next stop, Prince Regent.


Prince Regent
It's pretty much due north of where I started this morning, at Pontoon Dock - with the expanse of the Royal Victoria Dock separating them. It also sits at the north east corner of the Excel centre - and this is the main, indeed only, attraction nearby.

Unfortunately, not only have I visited it before, but the exhibition centre also happens - today - not to be hosting any events whatsoever, and is as dead as the proverbial dodo.

The Excel Centre
I take a stroll to the dockside, and snap a couple of photos of the buildings across the water, but even these are fairly mundane.

Royal Victoria Dock
I do spy the slightly odd spectacle of a ship on what looks like a raft...


SS Robin

This is the SS Robin, apparently the world's oldest complete steam coaster (which, as the name suggests, is a vessel which only works coastal waters), built in 1890 and now fully restored. The 'raft' is actually a pontoon, which allows the ship's restored hull to be seen in all its glory.

We're also reasonably to close to City Airport, though even the planes seem to be having a day off today, as I don't see a single arrival or take-off in the whole time I'm here.

So I set off once again...

***
... to my next stop - and my final DLR station of the day - Pudding Mill Lane.


Pudding Mill Lane
This is, like its next-door neighbour Stratford, a station that provides easy access to the 'Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park' (formerly simply the 'Olympic Park') - the home of London's 2012 Olympic Games, and continuing as the site of various sports venues.

However, unlike Stratford, this station wasn't actually open during the games themselves - for two very good reasons.

Firstly, Pudding Mill Lane station was deemed too small to be able to cope with the expected crowds, so was closed for the duration of the games and only reopened on 12th September 2012.

And the second very good reason that the station I'm visiting wasn't open during the games is that it wasn't actually here.

The original Pudding Mill Lane station was located a short distance to the north of the current one, and was the one which was closed during the Olympics. Despite briefly reopening after the Games, it was permanently closed a couple of years later and re-sited to the south, as the construction of the new Crossrail line required a tunnel ramp to be built at its old location.

Despite its proximity to the Olympic Park I don't propose to use my visit to Pudding Mill Lane to thoroughly explore the home of the Games. It seems more appropriate to do that when I visit Stratford later on my travels. However, I do allow myself a quick look at the nearest couple of landmarks.

Orbit Tower
The first of these is the iconic 'Orbit Tower' (officially the 'ArcelorMittal Orbit' - to use the name of its Steel Manufacturing sponsor). This is the largest piece of public art in Britain and was designed by Anish Kapoor - who also designed the 'Cloud Gate' (or 'Bean') sculpture in Chicago, among other famous pieces.



The tower has two observation platforms and, from last year, a permanent tunnel-slide. These again, I will hopefully get a chance to experience when I return to Stratford.




Next to the Orbit is the main Olympic Stadium of the park - now the home of West Ham Football club.

Olympic Stadium
There was considerable dispute as to the post-games tenancy of the stadium, with several rival football clubs and other interested parties bidding for its use.

It took almost exactly six years, from August 2010 (long before the actual games, but the time when the official 'Legacy' process began) to July 2016 (when the final objection was dropped) for West Ham finally to be the undisputed tenants of the stadium, with a 99 year lease costing £2.5 million a year.

Again, I suspect I'll be able to get a closer look at the stadium at a later date, so for now I call it a day here, and move on once more.

***
Putney Bridge station - the last on today's list, and (more importantly) the last of the 'P's - is on the Wimbledon branch of the District Line and a short distance to the east of the bridge after which it is named.

Putney Bridge Station

The bridge itself is famous for being the starting point of the historic University Boat Race between the rowers of Oxford and Cambridge.

Putney Bridge

The official starting line is marked by an unassuming stone post on the south side of the river - inscribed with a simple 'UBR' (for University Boat Race).



The two teams race from this point to a similar marker at Chiswick Bridge, 4.2 miles away, and the route - known as The Championship Course - has been the official race course since 1845, though the Boat Race has been run between the two universities since 1829.





The bridge crosses the Thames from Putney (south of the river) to Fulham (north of the river) and the station is therefore actually in Fulham.

The Thames - looking westwards.

To the west of the station is Fulham Palace - the historic home of the Bishops of London.


Fulham Palace
Though the current building is approximately 500 years old, being constructed in the early 16th Century, there was a bishop's residence here continually from as early as about 700AD. Since 1973 however, the Bishop's residence is at Dean's Court, by St Paul's Cathedral - the diocesan cathedral for London.

The Bishop of London is 3rd in seniority in the Church of England after the Bishops of Canterbury and York, and the current incumbent is Richard Chartres, although he is actually due to retire from the post in exactly one week's time, on Shrove Tuesday the 28th February. A previous incumbent was Nicholas Ridley (c.1500-1555) who was one of the 'Oxford Martyrs', burned at the stake by Queen Mary I (daughter of Henry VIII) for the crime of heresy.

I've arrived long after the palace shuts its doors to visitors, unfortunately, so I have to be satisfied with a quick wander round the gardens.

And that's your lot for today, boys and girls.

Another letter ticked off the list, and another stage closer to finishing this remarkably pointless challenge.

You never know - I might actually finish this thing one day. Wonder what I'll do with myself after that......

Toodle-pip!

Tuesday, 14 February 2017

'Love Don't Live Here Anymore'

Day 71
 
Piccadilly Circus - Pimlico - Pinner - Plaistow
 
Ah, Valentine's Day...
 
What better day to venture forth on my travels, to encounter - no doubt - the myriad couples expressing their love for one another in the time honoured ways...
 
Hands being held, joint-selfies being taken, prolonged kisses in the middle of the pavement being enjoyed, pedestrians "ahem-ing" politely in order to get past...
 
Piccadilly Circus


Eros...?
And Piccadilly Circus - my first station today - could hardly be more appropriate. It must surely be a Mecca for London's lovers. I mean, where better than under the benevolent eye of the God of Love himself - otherwise known as Eros - to express one's love for one's partner of choice?
 
Well - anywhere, it would seem.
 
The statue is certainly bereft of any sign of smooching couples.
 
...No - Anteros
Perhaps it's too early in the day - I've arrived at about 10am and though the traffic is its usual congested self, the tourists are rather thinner on the ground.
 
Or perhaps it's an indication of the thorough research done by your modern-day city-dwelling romantic, who has discovered - as of course I have too - that the world-famous statue of the winged Love-God Eros overlooking Piccadilly Circus is - in fact - nothing of the kind...
 
Unveiled in 1893 (on my birthday in fact - the 29th June) the 'Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain' (to give it its official title) is actually of Eros' twin brother - Anteros.

Both were Love-Gods - being the sons of Aphrodite - and before I go on, I have to say that whatever her prowess as Goddess of Love might have been, she must clearly have been a particularly lazy sort of parent if she could do no better than this in the naming of her twin boys Eros and Anteros.

I mean really?! Is that the best you can do?!

The modern day equivalent would be to have two sons called 'Dave' and 'Not-Dave'.

Anyway - whereas Eros was the God of Sensual Love (or, in other words, sex), his brother was the God of 'requited' or 'selfless' Love - and thus a fitting tribute to the Earl Of Shaftesbury, a social reformer and philanthropist who, among other things, instituted reform of the Child Labour laws, Lunacy laws, Mining regulations, and Education for the poor.
 
However, even a selfless and charitable Love-God (when depicted as a strappingly naked young man) was too much for some delicate Victorian sensibilities, and attempts were made to rename him as the 'Angel Of Christian Charity' - which was the closest they could get to making him British rather than Greek...
 
Neither that epithet, nor the official title for the monument, nor the actual name of the God in question have managed to stick, however, and the statue has remained simply 'Eros' for as long as anyone can remember. Even the sign on the tube station exit uses this name now, no doubt to the irritation of commuting classical scholars.
 
Love is in the air...
somewhere... possibly...
 
 
 
In any case, it doesn't seem to have attracted many seekers of romance this morning. I wait in vain for several minutes, hoping to take a suitably saccharine photo of a loving couple, before eventually making do with this pair...
 
 
Hardly Trevor Howard and Celia Johnson are they...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The station itself is one of several in London that  - given its busy location - has wisely chosen to remain entirely underground rather than emerge from a ticket hall at street level, though originally this was not the case. In fact, this station is rather a rarity on the Underground, being the work of both of the famous designers, Leslie Green (who did the original street level station) and Charles Holden (who did the replacement subterranean version).
 
Above ground, the next most famous aspect of Piccadilly Circus after Eros (I know - get over it) is - I imagine - the huge array of illuminated advertising signs on the corner of Shaftesbury Avenue. Originally lit with ordinary light-bulbs, and then the more familiar neon signs, they finally went digital in the early 2000s with a change to LED panels.
 
The not-so-illuminated Illuminated Signs...
Currently however, and for the coming several months, the panels have been switched off and will remain off for the longest period since WWII. They're also covered in scaffolding to allow them to be replaced with a single huge LED panel.
 
Theatreland...
Shaftesbury Avenue, above which the signs have urged us to drink more fizzy drinks and eat more hamburgers for all these years, is of course named after the same Earl of Shaftesbury mentioned earlier.
 
The street is synonymous with the Theatre having no fewer than five theatres along its length (six if you go to its far end across Charing Cross Road).
 
This is the 'West End' of theatrical legend - the place where every actor dreams of being in a hit show and every show has to be a hit to survive. As such it is, of course, largely tourist driven, since they're the only ones who can afford to pay the ridiculously high ticket prices.
 
 
 
Piccadilly Circus is, of course, at the end of Piccadilly - the long thoroughfare which stretches westwards from here to Hyde Park.
 
The two other stations along its length - Green Park and Hyde Park Corner - have already been crossed off my list, as you'll remember, so today I need only venture a little way along it from this end.
 
The architecture round here is all rather grand - being once the residences of the wealthy Georgian and Victorian gentry - and even the shops are of the upmarket kind.
 
Fortnum & Mason
 
 
The most well-known is perhaps Fortnum & Mason - purveyors of groceries and luxury foods to the rich and famous. Started by a former employee of the royal household - William Fortnum (who used to sell the leftover stubs of candles from the royal palace) - and his landlord Hugh Mason, it soon rose to prominence.
 
 
 


 
 
Among several claims to fame, it is said to have been the birthplace of the Scotch Egg, and to have been the first shop in England to sell the hitherto unheard of invention of a Mr Henry J. Heinz - tins of baked beans.
 
 
The front of the shop features a clock which - every hour on the hour - opens to reveal model figures of the two founders, who trundle out of their closets, nod to one another, then retire.
 
 
Which figure is which is not made clear - though judging by the candlestick held by the one on the right, I would hazard a guess that he's the erstwhile candle-thief.
 
Hatchard's
On the other side of the road is another venerable shop - this time a bookseller, named Hatchard's.
 
It is in fact the oldest bookshop in the UK, having opened in 1797 and holds three Royal Warrants. Though it is now owned by Waterstones, it still tries to portray an air of old world charm - it's the sort of place you can imagine a character from Dickens popping into of an afternoon.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
There's much more to see and do around Piccadilly Circus (though the tube stations are so close in this part of town that it all begins to overlap somewhat) but I have three more stations to visit today, and I must get on - so I head off to my next destination, Pimlico.
 
***
 
Pimlico

On paper (or on the map at least) Pimlico looks fairly dull. It's a mainly residential and vaguely triangular area, bounded to the south by the river, to the east by Vauxhall Bridge Road and to the west by the railway tracks spewing southwards out of Victoria station. The station is at one end of the main shopping street - Lupus Street - though even this is not much more than a branch of Tesco and a few fast food outlets.

But a little more digging unearths a few more interesting nuggets of information.

Firstly, of course, it is the subject of a classic Ealing Comedy film, 'Passport To Pimlico', in which a horde of treasure is discovered, together with a document proving that part of Pimlico is actually owned by the Duchy of Burgundy and is therefore no longer part of Great Britain (and thus no longer subject to post-war rationing). The local shopkeeper is appointed Prime Minister and there is a battle of wills between the 'new Burgundians' and the British government, with the former requiring tube travellers to present passports as they enter the area, and the latter cutting off power and water and surrounding the area with barbed wire.

Eventually - after much comic to-ing and fro-ing - the Burgundians agree to loan the British the treasure they have found, ending the dispute, and life returns to normal.

Pimlico station is on the Victoria Line, one of the (relatively) more recent additions to the network - this station being opened as late as 1972. There are newer stations obviously - on the Jubilee Extension and the DLR - but it still seems a little odd to think that this station is only as old as I am, when much of the rest of the network was built over a hundred years ago.

Since it is mostly residential, the strictly geographical area of Pimlico has little to see within it - but it does also happen to be the closest station (north of the river) to Vauxhall Bridge, across which is the Secret Intelligence Service Building at Vauxhall Cross, or in other words - the home of MI6, and therefore the place where James Bond works.

SIS Building
Of course, 007 is entirely fictional, but this hasn't stopped the makers of the Bond films making full use of the iconic building in their storylines - blowing it up on more than one occasion.

As I stand across the river from the MI6 headquarters, a speedboat crosses my field of vision sporting a paint-job which leaves me seriously wondering whether, after all, James Bond is as fictional as I had imagined.


'Do try not to break it this time, 007...'
It's perhaps more 'Roger Moore' than 'Daniel Craig' but still, you never know...

Further along the river to the east of the bridge is Tate Britain - an art museum specialising in British art, and holding works by (among others) JMW Turner, Constable, Blake and - currently - an exhibition of works by David Hockney.

Tate Britain
It is built on the site of the former Millbank Prison, and a marker post across the road tells me that it was from this prison that convicts were loaded onto ships bound for penal colonies in Australia.


Site of Transportation


In the trees on the riverbank, there's a collection of shoes.

Yes, I know - not a sentence you expect to write of an evening, but there you have it.

I don't think these ones are ripe yet...
The shoes are all very shabby, but whether this was the reason they were discarded, or whether it's some kind of surreal protest at the spies opposite ('sneakers' perhaps...?) I don't know.

It's an odd image on which to ponder as I head to my next station anyway.

***
Pinner is another of the 'Metro-Land' stations out to the north-west of London, and very pleasant it is too.

Pinner

There's a sense of very relaxed history about the place - as if it's saying 'Look, I've been here far longer than I care to remember and I'm not going anywhere soon, so let's all just settle back and enjoy the scenery ok?'

Church Street

And it has been here a long time - there's been a May Fair here since 1336 (at least), the church at the top of Church Street (St John The Baptist) was consecrated in 1321, and some of the buildings on both Church Street and the main High Street claim a vintage almost as good.

High Street

As it's lunch-time I settle myself in a coffee shop on - appropriately enough given today's date - Love Lane.

Love Lane
This is definitely one of those places where it's pleasant to just sit by a window with a coffee and watch the world go by.

It's reasonably affluent as an area, and to the north of the High Street are many private roads with neatly trimmed topiary and expensive cars in the driveway. Nevertheless it still has the kind of village-y feel you miss out on in the more central boroughs of London. I get the feeling that every time they wander along the High Street, the locals can pretty much guarantee bumping into half a dozen people they know.

Some of the locals - past as well as present - are fairly well known to the wider public. Sir Patrick Moore was born here; Isabella ('Mrs') Beeton, Michael Rosen, Leslie Bricusse, Ronnie Barker, Bob Holness, Barry Cryer and Neighbours theme song writer Tony Hatch have all lived here at one time or another.

Sadly, I can't spend as much time here as I'd like however, as my next and final stop is right across town - so reluctantly I drag myself back to the station and onwards.

***
And so on to Plaistow, the final stop of the day, which is both a place of some significance... and rather a disappointment...

Plaistow

It's significance lies in the fact that this station marks TWO-THIRDS of the way to completing my challenge. It's the 244th station I've visited out of the 367 on my list!

(And, yes, I know the maths is a bit off - but you can't visit 2/3 of a station, so I'm rounding the numbers down to keep it simple.)

It's taken me almost exactly three years to get to this point (rather longer than I anticipated when I set out...) and at this rate I should reach the final station some time in late summer 2018...

And the disappointment?

Well, I'm afraid it's simply that the place is such a dump...

At least the weather's ok...
I'm sure the locals find ways to amuse themselves... but for the casual visitor the tower-blocks, disused buildings, dilapidated shop-fronts and litter-strewn streets are hardly the most welcoming of sights.

I try to give the High Street a fair crack of the whip - but I'm afraid it simply can't compare with the one I've just come from in Pinner. (Well, it can compare - in the sense of 'being an awful lot worse than').

So, yes - a bit of a disappointment, but (numerically at least) still a significant milestone. And that's the barely positive thought I cling on to as I turn on my heels and make my way back to the station and start my long journey back home...