Wednesday, 26 March 2014

'Things Ain't What They Used To Be'

Day 7
 
Barkingside - Barons Court
 
Ok - here's a question for all you Londoners (or at least those of you who, like me, live in one of the 32 boroughs that make up 'Greater London')...
 
How old is 'Greater London'?
 
No, don't Google it! Take a guess... Given that many of the names of the boroughs can be traced back to settlements of over 1000 years ago, when do you think they first came together officially as 'Greater London'?
 
Well, if you're younger than 50 years old, you'll probably have assumed, like me, that Greater London has been around for, ooh, I don't know, a couple of centuries or so.
 
In fact, the administrative area and ceremonial county of Greater London was first created in 1965.
 
1965!
 
That's only a few years before I was born. It's the year after John F. Kennedy has told us he's a doughnut, and been assassinated. Martin Luther King has had a dream, the first two Bond films have been shown in cinemas, and we've sent men up into space - all before Greater London even existed. For heaven's sake - Johnny Depp is older than Greater London!
 
Alright, so the phrase 'Greater London' had been in use for a while before 1965, but only unofficially. It wasn't until April 1st 1965 that the London Government Act made it official.
 
All of which is relevant because it was as a result of this administrative rejigging that Barkingside ceased to be part of Essex and became instead part of Greater London. It's a district of Ilford, in the borough of Redbridge, and it's also my first destination of the day.

***
Today, ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, for your delight and delectation, I am pleased to announce my inaugural attempt at the extraordinary feat of centri-linear navigation known as (drumroll please...) The Fairlop Loop.

Actually, these days the section of the Central Line that branches off at Woodford and doubles back on itself to Leytonstone is more properly known as the Hainault Loop, since Hainault is the main terminus on this branch, and very few trains actually complete the whole loop anyway. The Fairlop Loop was the name of the original Great Eastern Railway branch line that preceded the Central Line, and followed almost exactly the same route. Personally, however, I think "Fairlop Loop" has more panache, so that's what I'm going with.

It's a bit of an epic journey - one of the longest I've taken so far - and I'm quite surprised to be making it at all this week. On Monday morning I woke up at 6am with some very ominous gurglings going on in my digestive system. I'll pass over the next 24 hours as delicately as I can, but if I ask you to imagine Niagara Falls at one end and Victoria Falls at the other, you can perhaps imagine the scene in my bathroom.

As is often the way, it was violent but short-lived, and by yesterday evening I was pretty much back to normal. Thankfully so, as I received an email from my agent informing me that I had been asked back for a recall audition for the TV Commercial I mentioned a while ago. This would be at 4.40pm today, and would give me an opportunity in the morning and early afternoon to visit another station or two.

And so this morning I sit on the Central Line and travel quite a large proportion of it's length. On the way - the journey is going to take over an hour - I read a book and occasionally glance at my fellow passengers.

There's nearly always an unusual, eccentric or in some way eye-catching outfit to be seen on the tube, and this morning it's being worn by the man opposite me, although at first glance you might not think there's much to comment on. He's a man who I'd guess was in his 70s and who is in almost all other respects dressed in the epitome of "O.A.P. Casual". (Since this blog may be being read by non-UK residents, I should explain the abbreviation - it stands for Old Age Pensioner and is loosely applied to anyone over the age of 60.) He has light grey trousers, a faded fawn overcoat, a flat cap and spectacles. I can't tell, but I would lay money on there also being a proper shirt and tie beneath the overcoat.

On his feet are comfortable slip-on brown shoes.

But no socks.

He doesn't look particularly frail or confused, so I don't think he's wandered out of a care home somewhere - I can only assume he likes his feet to breathe a bit. Mind you, it's not the warmest of days, so I hope he's not got a long walk when he gets off the tube...

There are two thoughts that occupy me having seen this picture of contented old age. The first is, why do so many men, no matter which era they were born in, seem to end up wearing the same outfit as soon as they hit their 70s? Of course, there was a time when men of all walks of life habitually wore a shirt and tie, both at work and in the home. Many of them regularly wore hats, flat-cap or otherwise, too. Older Gentlemen were described as "nattily" dressed, or "well turned-out". In the memories of my childhood, every pensioner in the Seventies and Eighties (and in their 70s and 80s) is wearing a variation on this theme.

But a 70 year-old today would have been a teenager in the Sixties! Surely they were all wearing tie-dye t-shirts and kaftans! Can such rebellious free-expression be so easily forgotten? Will the rebels of the Seventies and Eighties - the punks or the mods - succumb to the same fate? Will I? I've never owned a flat-cap in my life! Will one suddenly appear through the letter-box on my 70th Birthday as a sort of pre-cursor to the telegram from the Queen on my 100th? I shudder at the very thought.

The second thought that occupies my mind, and does at least give me a modicum of hope, is that at least there's an inherent rebellion in the sockless man opposite me. Maybe it's not so inevitable after all...

***
Arriving at Barkingside, my first thought is that it looks much more like one of the older Main Line Railway stations than a tube station, and of course, this is because that's what it once was.


Barkingside - Ex-Essex, now Greater London,
Ex-Great Eastern Railway now Tube
It opened in 1903 as part of the Great Eastern Railway and didn't move over to the tube network until the 1940s.

It's quite an attractive little station, but after taking my photo there's nothing else to see but a car-park, so I head off into 'town'.

***
After a few minutes I pass the old and rather forbidding concrete mausoleum that was until recently the Head Office of Barnardo's - the charity set up by Dr Thomas Barnardo in the late 1800s to protect vulnerable children.

While I wholeheartedly agree with the sentiment of protecting children, I wonder about the unwelcoming nature of this old building. Nothing could be further from the wonder, innocence and playfulness of childhood, than this grey fortress - and while the children who need the charity's help may not have had much wonder and playfulness in their lives, this building would hardly bring them much comfort.

The newer building, only recently completed, next door is a much lighter and more welcoming affair, full of gleaming tall windows and airy rooms, but there's still nothing specifically "child-like" about it - it could be the offices of an insurance company.

Of course, I realise (as an actor more than anyone else) that this is the "behind the scenes" part of the organisation, and that I wouldn't expect for example, the offices of Help The Aged to be littered with Stannah Stair Lifts, or the British Heart Foundation to have on-site defibrillators and ECGs. Nevertheless, the looming greyness of the old building, and the bland corporateness of the new, seem disturbing and depressing.


Barnardo's - Believe In Children
(but keep them off the grass)
In the five minutes it takes me to continue on from Barnardo's and up the length of the High Street I count no less than half a dozen Hair And Beauty establishments and at least another four Nail Parlours (one of which is called "Tartz", which should tell you all you need to know). Does this make Barkingside the home to some of the most glamorous and beautiful people on Earth?

Sadly, no. I fear the industry - if it can be called that - is for export only, as none of the locals I see on my walk seem to have access to it.

I'm also not a little puzzled by a hitherto undreamed of combination of procedures I see on the "menu" board of one of the Beauty Parlours - namely a "Brazilian Blow Dry".

Now, I'm a man of the world - I know what a "Brazilian" is. The ritual depilation beloved of the glamour industry is well documented. And a "Blow Dry"? Yes, fairly straight forward. No problem there... So what on God's Green Earth is a Brazilian Blow Dry? How...? I mean... what?... It sounds too hideous for words.

(Ok, so I've just looked it up at home, and despite still being fairly repellent, it's not as bad as the combination of words led me, initially, to believe...)

***
At the end of the High Street is Fullwell Cross Roundabout, at which point I stop walking as I'm only a few minutes away from the next station on this branch of the Central Line (though sadly, not the next on my list, or even close to it!). Fairlop station is so close that, when I do get round to visiting it, I could easily find myself walking this route in reverse. However, there's also a huge park between the two stations, so I'll save that for later and concentrate today on what I find at the roundabout.

The major landmark is the Fullwell Cross Library. These days you're lucky to see a library at all, but to find one of such dramatic architecture is a happy surprise.

I have no idea why it's circular, whether this is a remnant of some previous incarnation of the building, or if the circular structure is perhaps more conducive to the lending of literature than other shapes. All I know is I like it.

Fullwell Cross Library - Handy to know, on
a shape with no sides, where the front is.
I do a quick circuit, snapping away contentendly...

'A house without books is like a room without windows' (Horace Mann)
The tree seems to be straining at its roots and trying to
escape - does it perhaps know how books are made?
As I'm taking a final photograph or two, I'm approached by a man who begins asking me about my camera, and photography in general. I won't risk offence by trying to guess at his ethnic background, except to say he had a south-east Asian demeanour.

He seemed, on the face of it, to be a very pleasant chap, and genuinely interested in photography, but years of living in London have given me a natural scepticism, so I was initially wary. Knowing that my camera was safely triple-looped round my wrist, and that my phone was in my jeans pocket out of his reach, I relaxed more into the conversation, and even took his picture to demonstrate a point I was making. Here he is...

A very pleasant chap - or a would-be pickpocket?
If he was a would-be pickpocket - and I hope I'm doing him an enormous disservice by even suggesting that - he was disappointed. In any case, I don't seem to have lost anything, and I have his picture for the "Wanted" poster if the need arises...

We were joined towards the end of our chat by a sweet little old lady of 80-odd, who (I think) initially thought it was some sort of magazine photo-shoot and that I was taking photos of a celebrity.

Perhaps because he recognised her, or at least recognised the signs of a talkative old lady about to launch into her favourite pastime, my photographic subject soon moved on, and I was left chatting to my new companion. She was a dear old thing, old-school Londoner through and through, and she kept me entertained for a good twenty minutes with her family history and frequent rueful pining for the way things used to be round here. "It was all green fields" is a phrase that's pretty much become a cliché over the years, but she used it quite unselfconsciously as a simple statement of fact.

Where the Library stands now was once, apparently, a pasture for donkeys, and across the road, rabbits gambolled freely in the surrounding fields (at least they did, until they were shot and taken home for the locals' evening meals).

Another feature of the roundabout is the oak tree that stands in the middle of it, and which also gives its name to the nearby pub; "The New Fairlop Oak". The old Fairlop Oak (a tree which, legend has it, gave Fairlop its name, although you'll have to wait until the 'F's to hear that particular story) stood somewhere in the nearby park and was blown down in 1820, with the new one being planted in 1951 to celebrate the Festival of Britain.

The new Fairlop oak (tree) and The New Fairlop Oak (pub)
***
The spots of rain I've been trying, for the last half hour or so, to ignore falling from the ever darkening clouds, finally erupt into a great blobbing downpour as I hurry back to the station and catch the Central Line westwards towards my next destination.

***
It's still bucketing down as the Piccadilly Line train pulls into Barons Court station 45 minutes later, and I'm almost tempted to take a photo of the platform sign from the comfort of the train and not bother getting out at all.

The temptation is all the greater because this is one part of London I already know reasonably well, having spent two years commuting here regularly. Just round the corner from the station is where I trained to become a professional actor - the London Academy of Music & Dramatic Art, or LAMDA as it's more commonly known.

I do get out of the train, and even venture as far as the exit to the station, but there's very little cover from the rain, and I hop from one shop-awning to the next trying to get a decent vantage point to take a photo of the station. The area immediately outside the station is exactly as I remember it (I finished my training in 2006 and have been back sporadically since then) with the same shops and cafés, and the same busy flow of people and traffic to and from the nearby Talgarth Road. Nearby is Queen's Tennis Club, where the annual pre-Wimbledon championships (formerly the Stella Artois, and currently the Aegon Championships) are held in June. Further afield is a pub called the Curtains Up, home of the tiny Barons Court Theatre, where I  once appeared in a musical with Sally Knyvette, of Blake's 7 fame.
Barons Court - The rain it raineth every day
The station itself was constructed in 1905 and has a distinctly Art Nouveau feel to it. I mentioned earlier the temptation to take a photo of the platform sign from the inside of the train - the sign (or signs, for there are several of them) are enamel panels mounted on the wooden benches along the platform length, a feature which is apparently unique on the whole network.

At first glance it appears that those responsible for naming London's various suburbs have once again been playing fast and loose with the rules of English grammar and been disregarding apostrophes with a reckless abandon.

In this case however, it is a sin of addition (by inserting a space) rather than of omission, as the area is widely believed to have been named after an estate in Ireland called Baronscourt - with which the developer of this part of London, Sir William Palliser, is thought to have had connections.

Barons Court - apostrophe not required
The rain is so heavy, and the area so unchanged, that I feel that the inevitable soaking I would get by venturing further is not worth it, and in any case I have an audition to get to, back in town, so I dash back to the cover of the platform and catch a train back into central London.

***
And that's it for today, as far as the A-Z challenge goes, but if you're interested, I'll continue with more insights into the acting world and describe the audition I had that afternoon.

As I mentioned earlier, this was a "recall" - a second audition for the TV Commercial I first auditioned for back on Day 4.

My audition is scheduled for 16.40, and I arrive very early having only spent a short time at Barons Court. I head for the nearest coffee shop - a Costa - and get myself a drink. You can tell it's a central London coffee shop, as not a single table has more than one person sitting at it. Instead, in almost regimented precision, there's row upon row of tables, each occupied by a lone customer, all facing the same direction, all tapping away at their identical Macbooks, and all oblivious to the plight of the desperate coffee drinkers like myself, searching in vain for a free table.

If they're going to sit there and work in silence, the least they could do is group together and take up fewer tables! Or, better still (crazy idea though it may seem) - GET A BLOODY OFFICE!

***
After eventually joining a young lady at her table (with her permission - I didn't just annexe half of it by force or anything) and enjoying a cup of tea for a change, I wander back to the Casting Studios to be informed that the auditions are running "about half an hour" late.

This is nothing new - if your slot is after midday, you know damn well you'll be waiting well beyond your allocated time, as things have gradually slipped more and more behind schedule as the day has progressed. Normally you're counting yourself lucky you've got an audition at all, so if you're unlucky enough to be given a slot toward the end of the day, you just grin and bear it.

I'm sent to wait downstairs in the overflow waiting room (or broom cupboard as I'd probably have called it), which is cramped and stuffy and already full of a dozen or so auditionees, waiting in silence to be called back upstairs.

Well, I say silence; in fact it's more like living inside a child's Fisher Price Activity Centre (do they still exist?) as the various beeps, whistles, horns, bells, chirrups and boings of the Mobile Phone Symphony punctuate the silence every 3 minutes or so.

To make matters worse, this commercial is also going to feature kids, so the 10 foot square waiting room is full of Zachs, Amelies, Callums and Daisies squabbling over who's had the iPad longest.

Almost two hours late (because this is "Commercial Casting" Time, which follows a different set of laws to ordinary time - the amount of delay being inversely proportional to the artistic merit of the job on offer) I'm finally shown in for my audition.

Confidentiality agreements mean I can't say too much about it, but suffice to say I spent five minutes jumping up and down with my shirt off. And the chances are I'll never hear from them again.

"Hi-diddle-dee-dee, an actor's life for me..."

So that's the end of Day 7. A week's worth of travelling, and I've covered twenty stations. At the current rate of progress, were I to go out every day of the week visiting stations, it would take me about four and a half months to complete the whole network. With days off in between, I think I'm looking at more like a year - possibly longer. But that's fine, I'm happy to take my time - just as long as they don't decide to open any new stations beginning with letters I've already covered...

Oh, damn.

Now why did I have to go and think that.......

Tuesday, 18 March 2014

'Take Five'

Day 6

Baker Street - Balham - Bank - Barbican - Barking
 
So, we're on to the 'B's.
 
And if things go well, I'm hoping to get at least three, possibly four, stations under my belt today. I've had a few days off, I'm feeling refreshed, I've packed my camera and notebook in my bag, and I'm walking the familiar route to Ealing Broadway to catch a train into town.
 
For the first time on this journey, however, I'll be starting off by catching a train that doesn't actually feature on the standard Tube Map. The National Rail Network, or Main Line, or Ordinary Passenger Train Network (is it the passengers or the trains that are ordinary?) links London with the outside world. There are of course Main Line stations connected to many underground stations, (Waterloo, Victoria, Liverpool Street, and so on) and the one at Paddington is the end of the line for trains coming in from the west of England and Wales. As luck would have it, many of these trains pass through Ealing Broadway on their way to Paddington, which is then a quick 7 minute hop further on, often non-stop.
 
Which is good news for me this morning, as my first stop is just a few stations along from Paddington, and I can be there in less than half an hour - I'm on my way to Baker Street. 
 
***
"Duh-der-derrr, diddle, duddle-derrrr.....,
Duh-der-derrr, diddle, derrrrrr.........."

Most of us know at least two things about Baker Street - one is it that it is the home of the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes (from whom we'll be hearing lots more later), and the other is that bloody saxophone riff.

The mere thought, mention or sight of the words "Baker Street" has Gerry Rafferty's tune running on a loop in my head, and this is of course especially true today as I walk into Ealing. For some reason however, it's jockeying for position with Beethoven's "Ode To Joy", which I'm fairly sure is not so much a reflection of my emotional state, and more the fact that its tempo more or less matches my walking pace.
 
Once I'm actually on the train, of course, the saxophone wins the day, and is still providing the soundtrack as I emerge from the train at Baker Street a short time later.
 
Some claim that Baker Street was the first ever London Underground station - but this causes me some confusion. Do they mean it was the first station whose construction was completed? Or do they mean it was the first one to be opened? Surely there must have been at least one other station, otherwise where would the trains go?
 
In fact the "Metropolitan Railway", which was the first underground line in London (and indeed the world), was officially opened on the 10th January 1863. This connected the existing main line stations at Paddington, Euston and King's Cross, with new stations at places like Farringdon Street, Edgware Road, and of course Baker Street. The official opening date given for all of these new stations is the same, so if one of them wants to be the 'first', they're just going to have to fight it out amongst themselves.
 
What is absolutely positively 100% definite and undisputed about Baker Street, is its connection to Sherlock Holmes. It's a connection they scream from the rooftops. From the moment you step onto the platform and see the tiled murals depicting the famous "pipe and deer-stalker" profile in silhouette, to the huge statue of the man himself which looms over the main entrance to the station on Marylebone Road, you are made very much aware of who's important round here.
 
From past experience, I know that the main entrance will be packed with tourists taking photos of themselves next to the great detective, so to avoid them I take the side exit onto the north end of Baker Street itself.
 
It is truly impossible to avoid that famous silhouette. Sherlock Holmes is everywhere. Apart from the statue, and the Sherlock Holmes Museum (which I'll come to later), there's a café calling itself Bar Linda (not, as far as I recall, a reference to anything in the Holmes canon) which has an amateurishly daubed version of his profile on their sign; an advertisement on the wall next to another café which tempts us with "Sherlock Holmes Food" (whatever that is); a "Holmes Fish And Chip Shop" further down the road, and a Park Plaza Sherlock Holmes Hotel, whose restaurant ("Sherlock's") offers a "Sherlock Holmes Burger". There's even an art gallery called "Mori-ART-y's" (Ok, that last one was a lie, but I wouldn't have been at all surprised.)
 
It's not as if there were no other candidates for "most famous resident" on the street - and these people actually existed! Walking south I see two official English Heritage Blue Plaques, one marking the former residence of the composer Eric Coates, who lived at Flat 176, Chiltern court, and the other the home of William Pitt The Younger, the youngest person to date to become Prime Minister, who lived at number 120. There's also a blue plaque erected by the Heritage Foundation, marking the site of the Beatles' ill-fated Apple Boutique at number 94, with the inscription "John Lennon and George Harrison worked here".
 
Much as I enjoy the Holmes stories, I do wonder how a fictional detective from the 19th Century has managed to take over this area to such a marked extent. The tourists clamouring to be photographed in front of Buckingham Palace or Westminster or Nelson's Column I can understand, but the ones queuing to stand next to an actor dressed in faux Victorian police uniform outside the Sherlock Holmes Museum? No - I don't get that at all...
 
The museum is situated at the famous address, 221B Baker Street... except of course it isn't really, as this address never actually existed.
 
In the first place, when Sir Arthur Conan Doyle wrote the stories, the house numbers only went up as far as 100. Then, as new buildings were erected and house numbers were reallocated, the block which housed numbers 215-229 was, for decades, the property of the Abbey National Building Society. Despite there being no part of their building corresponding to 221B, they seem to have welcomed the implied association, and even gone so far as to employ a secretary specifically charged with answering the correspondence addressed to Sherlock Holmes at that address.
 
The Sherlock Holmes Museum, meanwhile, occupies the building between numbers 237 and 241 (i.e. number 239) but they have been officially allowed to call themselves number 221B since 1990. This naturally caused some controversy (and we love a bit of controversy) as to which building would officially receive, and respond to, all of the fan mail. The resulting dispute went on for many years, until Abbey National finally left their building in 2005, and, by default, the museum gained the right to receive Mr Holmes' correspondence.
 
It's all a bit silly really.
 
The Sherlock Holmes Museum -
A fool and his money...
221B or 239 Baker Street -
Depending on whether or not
you can count.














I hesitate in front of the museum trying to decide whether or not to go in. It feels very touristy, and not at all in keeping with the kind of travelogue I think I'm engaged in.
 
Eventually I bite the bullet and go in - but only as far as the ground floor, which is entirely given over to the purveyance of souvenirs. The amount and variety of utter tat available is staggering. Should you wish, you can avail yourself of  a deer-stalker, walking cane, pipe, tobacco, matches, notebook, magnifying glass, business card holder, police whistle, playing cards, fridge magnet or (and here the mind boggles) a pen in the shape of a hypodermic syringe. All (of course) adorned with the standard silhouette. If you decide to purchase any of these delights, you'll be relieved of your money by one of the three or four bored looking young women in "Victorian Housemaid" garb, and for a further £8 you can gain access to the "museum" upstairs where Holmes' and Watson's living quarters have no doubt been painstakingly recreated.

Disneyland it ain't...

***
On the way back to the station (I didn't bother going upstairs in the museum) I pass the London Underground Lost Property Office, which is situated a few doors up from it. In the window is a selection of items left on trains over the years - some of which are pleasingly bizarre. There are even a couple of early mobile phones, which despite being the size of a small briefcase, seem ever to have been the items most commonly left behind...
Lost Property - the things people take on the tube...

I suppose I should also take a look at the Holmes statue while I'm here, and avoiding the tourists as far as possible, I manage to combine a photo of the statue with my obligatory snapshot of the station name sign.
Baker Street - damn, got that
tune in my head again now...
Sherlock Holmes - he's not
actually real you know.













***
Next stop - Balham.
Balham - Gateway To The South?
In 1940 a German bomb scored an almost direct hit on Balham Station, collapsing tunnels on top of the people sheltering from the air-raid, and bursting water mains and sewers which flowed into the tunnels and platforms. Figures differ, but at least 64 people lost their lives here. A barely noticeable grey plaque on the wall of the ticket hall commemorates the event - a stark contrast to the gaudy "look at me!" references to Sherlock Holmes at Baker Street.

At first I'm a little disappointed by the sight of the "99p Stores", McDonalds, Wetherspoon Pub, and Amusement Arcade that greets me as I emerge from the station - it's all very familiar and "inner city" and I'm tempted to turn on my heel back into the station and head straight on to Bank - my next destination. However, mindful of the strictures I gave myself last week, I resolve to give the place a chance, and head off down the main street - Balham High Road.

It's worth it - tucked in among the usual suspects are enough independent coffee shops, restaurants, traditional butchers and the like, to make this feel more like a little village (albeit a rather grey and shabby one) and less like just another forgotten corner of the metropolis.

Nevertheless, other than for a spot of lunch, I only linger for twenty minutes or so. Nice though it is to know it's here, there's only so much coffee (independent or otherwise) I can drink in a day, and just at the moment I have no urgent need of a traditional butcher, thanks all the same.

Off to Bank it is then.

***
Waiting on the platform at Balham, my mind goes back to the tragedy that occurred here in the war, and I try to imagine the water rising over the platform. It's difficult to picture, not least because I can't help wondering why the water didn't simply drain away through the tunnels.

Looking it up at home later, it becomes a little clearer. As well as the water, of course, the earth above the tunnels will have collapsed into them and onto the people below. It must have been like another Somme down there - a mass of mud and sewage clogging up the platforms and tunnels...

***
Usefully, Bank is on the same line - the Northern Line - as Balham, and I'll be there in less than half an hour. On the train, the woman opposite me is in a "onesie" (a kind of Babygro for adults) while the infant in the pushchair in front of her is in sweatpants and designer puffa jacket.

I can't help feeling it should be the other way round...

***
It's beginning to rain a little as I come out of Bank Station and take in the immense buildings surrounding me.

There's a lot of history in these buildings, and the Bank Of England, after which Bank Station is of course named, is just one part of that.
Bank - once voted the least liked tube station in London
 
The Bank Of England
I know little of the history of the Bank, and am tempted by the signs for a museum I see, pointing me towards one of the side-entrances.
 
Sadly, unlike the museum dedicated to Sherlock Holmes, this one is shut.
 
I wander around among the other buildings - the Corn Exchange, the Magistrates Court, Mansion House - but feel distinctly out of place in the throng of grey suits criss-crossing the junction around me.
 
A statue commemorating the inventor of a tunnelling shield used in the excavation of the deep-level tube system - James Henry Greathead - is really the only thing I feel any sort of connection with here, and that's only because of this journey.
 
James Henry Greathead -
he really dug London
Since my earnings don't contain nearly enough zeros (at least, not at the right end) to remain here much longer, I decide to head off - on foot for a change - towards the next station on my list, which is Barbican.
 
 
 
 
 
 
***
Street names in London really are a law unto themselves.
 
Poultry - both the name of the
street and the subject
of the statue.
Along my way to Barbican I encounter Poultry, Cheapside, Old Jewry, Ironmonger Lane, St Martin's Le-Grand and London Wall - not a plain old crescent or avenue among them.
 
There's a statue adorning a building on the street called Poultry, which shows a cherubic figure holding a goose. I presume this is the poultry in question, but why it merits a street all to itself I never discover.


Barbican - brutal is beautiful, apparently
Fifteen minutes or so later I'm outside the less than enticing entrance to Barbican tube station. It's pretty much hidden among the concrete buildings that surround and tower over it. This whole area was redeveloped after the war in what has become known as the "Brutalist" school of architecture - anything that could be made of (and made to look like) huge concrete blocks, was.
 
 
There are little oases of softness hidden away among the stark grey buildings, and one of these is the Lakeside Terrace outside the Barbican Arts Centre. I've occasionally been to see plays at the Barbican, and always tend to head outside in the interval, as it can all get a bit oppressive around here. I head there now to recharge my batteries for the next, and final, stop of the day.

Barbican Arts Centre and Lakeside Terrace - one for the concretophiles
Lakeside Terrace - "Aaaand, relax....."
***
Having only planned to visit three or four stations today, I'm pleasantly surprised to realise that at 2.30pm I've already managed to tick off four stations, and am ideally placed to manage one more this afternoon. That's what I call getting your Five A Day!
 
I'm also ticking off a new Underground Line - the Hammersmith & City - which leaves only the Circle Line, the Waterloo & City Line and the Emirates Air Line (well, I mean, it's on the map - I've got to do it, haven't I?) and I'll have travelled on every single line on the Underground system.
 
The Hammersmith & City Line is taking me to Barking - further out east. In fact this is the furthest east I've been so far on my journey.
 
The H&C Line also luxuriates in the same brand spanking new trains (or "Rolling Stock" as the aficionados would have it) as the Overground and it's a very pleasant ride to Barking.
 
And there my enjoyment stops.
 
I don't know what it is about the place, but I feel very uncomfortable. I might be imagining it, but I get the sense that everyone is looking me up and down as if I'd walked into a saloon in Dodge City. Even the busker outside the station (the worst I've ever heard in my life by the way) chooses the moment I exit the station to stop playing.
 
"You ain't from round here, boy..." says nothing but my imagination, but it says it loudly and distinctly enough that I barely manage the ten minute walk up and down the high street, past two pubs (The Barking Dog and The Spotted Dog - although Rabid, Salivating, Subject-To-The-Dangerous-Dogs-Act Type Dogs might have been nearer the mark) and T. Cribb Funeral Directors (from the cradle to the grave???) before taking as speedy and surreptitious a photo of the station as I can manage, and hightailing it out of there.

Barking - I made my excuses and left

Friday, 14 March 2014

'Hello Again'

Day 5
 
Arnos Grove (Take 2) - Arsenal
 
Determined both to make amends for my frankly shoddy efforts so far this week, and also to complete the 'A's once and for all, I'm back on the Piccadilly Line this morning, heading North East once again.
 
By a happy coincidence (and it tells you something about how seriously I'm now taking this project that I can see the following as a 'happy' coincidence) my car needs some work doing to it and the garage I've had recommended to me happens to be just a few yards from Boston Manor tube station, which happens to be on the Piccadilly Line.
 
So at 10.47am I catch a train that terminates at Cockfosters. I've decided that I didn't really give Arnos Grove enough of an opportunity to prove itself on Tuesday, so I'm heading back there first. It takes just over an hour to get there, and this time I'm prepared.
 
Having looked at the map (the real one, not the tube map) I've seen that there's a park called Arnos Park a few minutes walk away from the station, and that's going to be my first port of call.
 
***
 
A word or two about the name Arnos Grove.
 
Originally the area, or at least part of it, belonged to a family with the surname Arnold, and was known as Arnold's Grove, or simply 'Arnold's'. This name persisted even when the land was built on by later owners, although the locals knew it more colloquially as 'Arno's'.
 
This nickname must have caught the fancy of the next owner, Sir William Mayne, although perhaps his grammar wasn't all it could have beeen, since when he renamed the estate Arnos Grove, he forgot the apostrophe.
 
Nowadays the name is pronounced as if the apostrophe had never been there in the first place, i.e. Arn-OSS rather than Arn-OZE, which I for one think is a shame.
 
***
 
It's another gloriously sunny spring day, with forecasters predicting temperatures which could reach 17 °C. After the rotten weather we had over the winter, this feels almost too good to be true.
 
Having taken a photo of the station exterior on my last visit, I don't feel obliged to take another one now and instead head straight for the park I spotted on the map earlier.
 
It's a nice one. Lot's of open spaces in the centre surrounded by trees of various types, but predominantly weeping willows and trees bursting with blossom.
 
The park also features a viaduct which carries the tube trains to and from the station, and a small brook, known as Pymme's Brook (so how come the Pymme family merit an apostrophe, eh?) which runs pretty much parallel to it. The whole place was just aching to be photographed, so I set up my camera and snapped away.
 
Arnos Park - A Viaduct, a Weeping Willow, and a very friendly dog walker
As I was taking a shot a very friendly dog walker stopped and chatted about other potential photo spots in the park, in particular the pond into which Pymme's Brook eventually fed. He gave me directions as to which path to follow, and I thanked him and set off in the direction indicated, musing on how pleasant it was to meet someone so unconditionally helpful.
 
Pymme's Brook - not related to the cucumber and strawberry laden summer beverage
 
I never did find the pond... I'm sure I just misunderstood his directions...
 
But along the way I was treated to a gorgeous display of blossom along the banks of the brook, and my camera and I spent a happy half hour photographing the blossom as the sunlight dappled (as it is wont to do) through the branches.
 
THERE NOW FOLLOWS A SELECTION OF ARTY, AND INDEED FARTY, PHOTOGRAPHS OF "BLOSSOM DAPPLED BY SUNLIGHT". SHOULD THIS NOT BE TO YOUR TASTE, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SCROLL DOWN TO THE NEXT SECTION OF TEXT WHERE HOPEFULLY YOU WILL FIND SOMETHING MORE ENTERTAINING...
 
 
 
 
 
 
Further along the path I come across the work of a would-be Banksy, which, while not perhaps up to the satirical artistry of the well-known
(or rather, well-known for being not-well-known) Bristolian graffitist, it nevertheless raises a smile as I pass by.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
***
Of course, now that I'm aware of the missing apostrophe, I find it impossible to forget, and am mentally inserting it whenever I see the word Arnos. Everything in the area (or at least, everything named after it) suddenly becomes the personal property of our absent friend Arno. Arnos Park becomes Arno's Park, Arnos Road becomes Arno's Road - even the local pool, from the sign of which some wag has removed the letter 'L', becomes in my mind a long lost stool sample waiting to be reclaimed. (I think I've been out in the sun too long...)
 
Time to head off to my next destination.
 
***
On the way I'm sat opposite two young Asian... well the only word I can think of that adequately describes them is "yuppies".
 
They sit in almost identical outfits - you could almost call them uniforms - blue and white pinstripe shirts, sleeves rolled up and open at the collar; pullovers tied loosely round their necks by the sleeves; leather shoes (but no socks); and even identical leather-strapped watches. Only the trousers differentiate them. One is in cream slacks, the other in salmon pink - practically the badge of the truly wealthy.
 
In the five minutes I'm forced to endure their company, they sit there playing "mine's bigger than yours" by comparing their respective prowess in the gym.
 
"I do 100 squats after my run, you only do 30"
"Yeah, but I do it with 60 kilos on my back"
"Nah, you'd never survive my workout"
"Rubbish, you wouldn't last five minutes doing mine"
 
And so on...
 
Thankfully they leave at Finsbury Park and I can relax - momentarily at least...
 
***
Once you're in a tunnel on the tube, and the view is necessarily limited, what's going on outside the windows has a funny way of almost ceasing to exist. If you register anything at all, it's a kind of blank, black nothingness.
 
It's rather startling then, to see (as I did only a few seconds out of Finsbury Park) a second train coming out of the blackness and running alongside yours for a few seconds. Fleetingly the words "Ghost Train" pass through my mind, before I realise there must be parallel tracks and occasional gaps in the tunnel walls to allow access.
 
I'm quite relieved to be getting off this train at Arsenal.
 
***
On my last, abortive, attempt to see these two stations, I ended up passing through Arsenal station on my way home, having run out of time. I mentioned gazing wistfully at the mural on the platform walls as we went through the station, but I now realise that what, in my memory, was an abstract design in brown and cream blocks, is actually the words "Gillespie Road" picked out in brown bricks on the cream wall.
 
Gillespie Road was the name of the station up until 1932, when it was renamed in honour of the football club that has had its home there ever since. The Woolwich Arsenal Football Club, as the original name suggests, was founded in Woolwich at the Royal Arsenal Factory but moved here in 1913.
 
The platforms at this station are therefore rather confusingly signposted both "Arsenal" and "Gillespie Road"  - that'll fox the tourists...
 
Another peculiarity of this station is that it has no escalators or lifts taking you to the street level from the platforms, but instead a long, sloping passageway. This is partly because the tunnels aren't in fact that deep at this point, but also because the platforms are not directly below the station entrance, but some distance away.
 
The first thing I decide to do on arrival at street level is look for some lunch. Unfortunately I don't have much luck - this must be one of the quietest stations I've been to (although I'm sure it's a very different matter on match days) and there don't appear to be any shops or businesses of any kind nearby, other than a (closed) kiosk by the station entrance.
 
I'm also disappointed with the area itself. Try as I might, this part of Highbury (which is the district in which Arsenal football club has chosen to base itself) resists all my attempts to find anything of more than passing interest.
 
Admittedly, it might yield more if I cared remotely about the team (or indeed the sport itself) but I'm afraid I have about as much interest in football as the abbreviated name of its English governing body would suggest.
 
All I do know about Arsenal is that for most of their history, they played at Highbury Stadium, but a few years ago (2006 in fact) they moved to a brand spanking new home called The Emirates Stadium, just round the corner.
 
I do a circuit of the old stadium, which has now been converted into residential apartments, which surround what used to be the pitch and is now landscaped gardens. When I pull out my camera to take a photo of the old frontage, I'm hailed by a motorcyclist in his late 50s who is just about to get on his bike across the road. He must assume I'm a fellow supporter on a pilgrimage (and I don't trouble to disabuse him of the notion) as he indulges in several minutes of nostalgia - mainly wistful but occasionally tinged with anger - for the good old days of the former stadium.
 
The Old Arsenal Stadium -
The New Arsenal Flats
He won't, he says, set foot in the new stadium, as the ticket prices are apparently exorbitant, and, in any case, it just wouldn't be the same...
 
It seems it's not only football that's a game of two halves - the old and the new seem to be finding it an uneasy match.
 
 
 
 
 
I had hoped (indeed expected) to feel a certain amount of elation, or at least mild triumph, when I left Arsenal, having completed the first major leg of my journey and finally ticked off all the 'A's.
 
Instead, the memory of the motorcycling football fan, heaving a sad and heavy sigh before mounting his bike and wishing me farewell, remains foremost in my mind as I take a photo of the station and make my rather deflated way back down the sloping passageway to the platform, and my tube home.
 
Arsenal - a station of two halves.
 

Tuesday, 11 March 2014

'Train In Vain'

Day 4
 
Arnos Grove
 
Well, the best laid plans, and all that...
 
Having given myself a severe talking to yesterday, and promising to try harder in the future, I get tricked by fate into making the same mistake two days running.
 
As I was walking home from the station yesterday I got a phone call from my agent (did I mention I'm an actor? Yes, I'm sure I did - any excuse for a bit of self-promotion). It seemed I'd been called for an audition in town the following morning at 11.30 - which was a bit of a problem as I had a dentist's appointment at 11.45, back in Ealing.
 
My very nice agent was soon back on the phone to the Casting Director who was happy to shift my audition to the first slot at 10am. This was great news as it now meant I had plenty of time to get back to Ealing by 11.45.
 
Plenty of time, plenty of time...
 
Dangerous words for someone who only needs two stations to complete the 'set'. Just two stations (which happen to be on the same line, in the same part of town, only six stops apart...) and I'll have visited every station that begins with the letter 'A'. I hesitate, but not for very long...
 
***
 
The audition is for a TV commercial, which (for the purposes of the excursion I now plan to make before my dentist's appointment) is even better news.
 
To explain, and to digress for a moment from the usual pith and marrow of this blog, there are three types of audition a professional actor might be called upon to attend:
 
Stage Auditions - which are basically for plays and musicals. At these you are normally sent a few pages of script, and are told to 'look at' (by which they mean learn - although they always claim it's fine if you don't) one or more character's lines. You then turn up on the day and are given the opportunity to perform the scene in the way you think best, usually with another actor who has been roped in to read all the other parts. The director might ask you to do it a slightly different way, which is their way of seeing how well you respond to direction, and then you are thanked for coming, hands are shook, and you go home about twenty minutes later.
 
TV Auditions - for dramas, sitcoms, soaps and so on. These are reasonably similar to stage auditions, in that you might be sent a few pages of script to look at (and here it is absolutely essential to learn them in advance, as you need to be able to look up from the script in the audition - there will be a camera pointing at you and you want your face to be seen, not the top of your head). The Casting Director (who is the middle-man - or more usually, woman - between you and the actual director)  normally reads in the other parts - but don't expect any acting from them. There's a bit more brusqueness about TV auditions, I presume because there's normally a much tighter control of the budget, and time is money. On the other hand, there normally is some money involved, which cannot always be said for stage work.
 
And then there are the TV Commercial auditions.
 
These things are a law unto themselves, and I hesitate to generalise, but there are certain recurring themes. Firstly, (and most relevant to the journey I'm currently chronicling) you'll be in and out in less than ten minutes, possibly no more than five. There's no hanging about - you go in, you say hello, you're told where to stand and to look into the camera that's pointing at you. Then you say your name and your agent's name, turn to show them your two profiles, hold up your hands and show them the front and back (in case they need to do a close up of you holding their 'product') and then you start the acting bit. They may or may not have sent you a script in advance, but in any case, once you're in the room this will have no bearing on what you get asked to do. The Casting Director will say something like, "Ok, you're an ordinary guy who's just got in from work and wants a sandwich. Can we see you buttering the bread - and you really love this butter, it's your favourite thing about making sandwiches, ok? Great". And off you go.
 
There have recently been a series of "idents" (those little mini-commercials either side of the ad-break which feature the sponsors of whichever programme you're watching) on TV which, are an uncannily accurate portrayal of what happens in a TV Commercial audition - and most viewers will probably assume they're too ridiculous to be true. If personal experience is anything to go by, I'm pretty confident they were all based on actual auditions.
 
Which is all fine and dandy, but the main point is that Commercial castings are over very, very quickly, and I should therefore have plenty of time (there are those words again...) afterwards to do a bit of travelling.
 
***
 
Which is, of course, what I decide to do.
 
I dash back to Oxford Circus station, which was the nearest to the Casting Studios, and take the Victoria Line to Finsbury Park. Here, they've very conveniently put the Piccadilly Line platform a matter of mere yards from the Victoria Line, so in just a few minutes I'm boarding a train that - as fate would have it, will take me as far as, but no further than, Arnos Grove, where it terminates.
 
The only trouble is, the further north we get, the slower things seem to move. We are held a couple of times at red signals or for platforms to become free, and when I finally get to Arnos Grove, It's very nearly 10.45am - which was the absolute latest time I had allowed myself to leave this part of town and start heading back towards Ealing.
 
Since I'm here though, I can't just stay in the station and do a U-turn without at least having a look up top.
 
I had forgotten, but am instantly reminded when I see it, that this station had been designed by our old friend Charles Holden - obviously in his "Round Period".
 
Compared with the rectangular blocks of Acton Town and Sudbury Town stations, I find myself quite taken with the cylindrical structure here. I suppose we're so used to seeing rectangular or square buildings - houses, flats, offices, warehouses, even churches - that there's still something eye-catching and novel about anything shaped differently. Despite being opened in 1932, there's something vaguely futuristic about the red brick drum, which seems to rise out of the ground as if pushed from below, like a giant cork from a bottle. Or, yes - that's it - it's like an enormous button waiting to be pushed down. Perhaps an aerial view will reveal a giant sign saying "Press Here".
 
(I check on Google Earth later - sadly, not)
 
But I can't hang around here all day analogising - I glance up and down the road, and seeing nothing new in the way of shops or housing, I take my photo and leave.
 
Arnos Grove - talk about Brief Encounter
It is, of course, too late now to stop at Arsenal and still make it back to Ealing in time for the dentist, so reluctantly I resign myself to yet another trip out this way before I can complete my set of 'A's.
 
As if to rub it in, I pass through Arsenal on my way back, and gaze wistfully at the decorative mural on the platform wall.
 
As I near Ealing however, it's becoming clear that even with a taxi from the station, I'm going to be late for the dentist. I'll have to call and warn them.
 
And it is then that I find out that my appointment was actually for 10.45, not 11.45 and they've been trying to reach me since about 11am. Oops.
 
All I can do is apologise and reschedule the appointment, although I take some comfort in the fact that I would have had to rearrange it anyway, as there was no way I could have done the audition (whichever time it was) and a 10.45am dentist's appointment on the same day.
 
Of course - had I rearranged it, I might have had time to see Arsenal as well.
 
Bugger.
 

Monday, 10 March 2014

'Slow Down'

Day 3
 
Anerley - Angel - Archway
 
In the words of Tom Lehrer: "a-suh-puh-ring is here"...
 
The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the crocuses are crocusing, and it's a fine old day for a spot of sightseeing. And yes, I know that much of this journey is, by definition, going to be spent underground, where the opportunities for sights to see are limited, but today I hope to see a little more blue sky than usual, as I'm kicking off with a trip on the London Overground service to Anerley.
 
Or, at least, I will be when I've crossed London to get onto it.
 
The Overground service is a sort of cross between the tube and a normal rail network. It's a roughly circular line (with occasional offshoots), which, if you look at the tube map, seems to have been designed to follow the path of the grey ring that designates Zone 2.
 
I could, therefore, board an Overground train at, say, Shepherd's Bush and travel all the way round to Surrey Quays, where I would take the West Croydon branch down to Anerley, without using the "proper" underground at all. I might have to change once or twice, as I don't think there's a train that goes 'full circle' so to speak, but it's a possibility.
 
However, today I'm on a tighter schedule than usual as I have a doctor's appointment back in Ealing at 4pm. In addition, although I'm trying not to let this dictate things too much, there's a chance I might actually complete the rest of the 'A's today! Five stations, all but the first of which are in North London, and are conveniently split between just two lines: Angel and Archway on the Northern Line, and Arnos Grove and Arsenal on the Piccadilly. If I get a move on I should be able to do it.
 
I decide therefore to get over to the other side of London as quickly as possible on the tube, and then take the Overground from Canada Water.
 
***
 
On the Central Line train at Bond Street, the driver announces that there will be a short delay while we wait for a member of station staff. His explanation for this starts formally enough, as we are told we are going to be given an "assisted dispatch" (not something I've ever had before - on the tube or anywhere else for that matter) as the driver's cab has a defective CCTV feed and he can't see the rear of the train. It's at this point that the driver's fluency in "announcement-ese" fails him and he makes the fair, if rather less formal, point that "we don't want to drag anyone along the platform, do we?"
 
Erm - no - no we don't. Well put.
 
***
 
It's a little after 11.15 when I get to Canada Water, and about twenty minutes later when I get off the train at Anerley.
 
The journey on the Overground train - the first time I've ever used it - is both interesting and disappointing. Not an easy combination to pull off you'd have thought.
 
The interest comes from the cleanliness, reliability and sheer size of the trains. They are like a supersized version of normal tube trains. Using the Central Line as an example, you can, I'm sure, picture the seating along the walls of each carriage, facing each other over a central aisle (I know some lines have occasional seats that face front or back, but ignore that for the minute).
 
The difference on the Overground trains is that the central aisle is roughly twice the width of that on the tube. Same size seating - twice the amount of leg room.
 
Or indeed - standing room (although given that, in the brief time I spent on the line, I never saw a carriage with more than half a dozen people on it, this seems an incredible amount of unused train space).
 
If there were any way of using these trains on some of the other underground lines, where space is always at a premium, we might all be a lot better off! (On second thoughts, scrap that idea - I suspect it would take the gravitational pull of a Black Hole to get people to abandon their territory in the doorways of some trains!)
 
As for the disappointment aspect of the Overground - this is, ironically, the lack of any view worth speaking of.
 
***
 
And here I feel obliged to offer a pre-emptive apology. This blog chronicles a journey. It is a journey of exploration. It is journey that covers an entire capital city and beyond. It is a journey that will take time, and effort, and pay-as-you-go Oyster Cards. It is a journey on which I hope to observe many and varied fellow travellers, and to share with you, dear reader, my impressions of them, and of their environment.
 
It is also a journey made up of lots of smaller journeys. And quite frankly, most of these are going to be pretty similar.
 
Travelling from one London Underground Station to another, along the same lines back and forth, will inevitably lead to a certain amount of repetition. I will try and keep this to a minimum, but I can see myself running out of different ways to describe the rows of terraces I pass, or the uninspiring architecture of some of the stations I visit, and for that, I apologise.
 
However, since the alternative would read something like this:
 
"Went from Baker St. to Balham (Bakerloo Line to Elephant & Castle; Northern Line to Balham)
Then from Balham to Bank (Northern Line all the way)"
 
I hope you'll agree that it's worth continuing to mine the seam of repetition in the hope of unearthing the occasional nugget of novelty.
 
***
 
Anyway - back to Anerley...
 
So having passed through some of the southern suburbs of London, with their annoyingly repetitive housing, I finally arrive at Anerley station.
 
The place itself has (according to the ever informative Mr Google) an interesting history. Or it would, if it actually existed, which apparently it doesn't.
 
Anerley - apparently it doesn't really exist
Now this is somewhat disconcerting, as I have a very clear memory of having arrived at a station claiming to serve this non-existent location, but let me explain...
 
Anerley was the name given to a vague area which spread outwards over time from Anerley Road.
 
Anerley Road itself was only so named because, when a Scotsman named William Sanderson built the first (and - for a time - only) house on it in 1827, he imaginatively named it "Anerly" (or "Only" in Scottish dialect).
 
Prior to that, the area was merely part of Penge Common - and if the authorities hadn't built the road, and friend William hadn't built his house, who knows what it would have been called.
 
In my imagination it becomes a kind of Narnia or Brigadoon and I wonder whether the others will believe me when I tell them of my adventures in this strange land...
Anerley - just checking it's still there
I wander down the hill from the station, and come across what must be one of the shortest sections of waterway I've ever seen.
 
Croydon Canal - probably not long enough to
actually hold a narrow-boat any more
It's what's left of the Croydon Canal, which lasted all of 27 years before it was abandoned as a waste of time, and now stands as a rather long and thin park lake.
 
The park is Betts Park, and is pleasant enough, with benches, a play area and even some gym equipment, which is currently being used by a couple of gents, who look to be well into their retirement.



***

So far, on this journey the stations I've visited seem to have fallen into two categories. There are stations which serve a very clear and obvious "DESTINATION" - in other words, they were built because people wanted to visit a particular building, or street, or attraction and needed a station nearby at which to get off the train. Covent Garden, St. Pauls, Oxford Street, Piccadilly Circus - you get the idea.
 
Then there are those stations which seem to have just sort of slipped in between the houses while no-one was looking. The people who live in the surrounding area presumably welcome the proximity to a transport link, but I can see no other reason why anyone (other than the occasional alphabetically obsessed nutter like myself) would ever choose to go there.
 
Anerley Station falls most definitely into the latter category, and so after a relatively short visit, I head back north.
 
***
 
Deciding that I have a bit of time to spare, having been in Anerley for only half an hour or so, I take the Overground again, this time heading north all the way to Highbury & Islington. I then plan to walk to my next port of call - which is Angel - along Upper Street, where the great and good of Islington practise their air-kissing.
 
My main reason for this decision is once again the novelty of travelling on something which looks and feels like a tube train, but which is travelling overground.
 
Unfortunately, once north of Canada Water, it seems the definitions of the words 'over' and 'ground' are applied somewhat loosely, and we spend most of our time in what feel very much like tunnels, with only occasional glimpses of the sky through gaps in the concrete roofs.
 
"I never saw a man who looked
With such a wistful eye
Upon that little tent of blue
Which prisoners call the sky"
(Oscar Wilde - The Ballad Of Reading Gaol)
 
A glimpse of The Shard (London's newest and tallest skyscraper) between the rooftops north of Whitechapel signals  a return to daylight, and sadly a return to the views of terraces, tower blocks and warehouses which seem to greet my eye at every turn.
 
***
 
As I pull into Highbury & Islington  I realise that time is shorter than I thought. The London Overground seems to run at a more sedate pace than the tube, and it's already 1pm. Conscious of an increasing desire to finish off the 'A' section of my list, and having only visited one station so far today, I set off briskly to walk the length of Upper Street.
 
I know the area quite well already, as I've been to the theatre here (The Almeida) often, as well as visiting some of the many coffee shops and eateries along the street. I might therefore be forgiven for not taking time to look around very much on my way to Angel.
 
However, I should take a little time here to describe the area for those not familiar with it.
 
Islington has an affluent and fashionable air about it - with many familiar and famous names having lived there over the years. The shops and restaurants include the usual High Street names, but also an eclectic selection of antique, clothing, food, décor and toiletry shops.
 
It's a pleasant street to stroll along, and there are plenty of places to stop for a drink and watch the world go by, if that's your thing.
 
Today, however, my 'thing' is to grab a sandwich and a bottle of coke and head straight into the station (pausing for a photo first, naturally). 
 
Angel - sorry, must dash!
A sense of urgency has really taken over me now as I head north on the Northern Line to Archway. If I'm going to get to the other two stations on the Piccadilly Line after this I'm really going to have to hurry. I find myself hoping that there's nothing much to see at Archway so I can grab the photo and leave as quickly as possible.

Archway - but I don't think it's that one
I almost breathe a sigh of relief as I find that this is in fact the case. I do a quick circuit of the station to make sure I haven't missed anything, and - dismissing the few mini-markets and kebab shops I see as not being worth my time - I turn on my heel and take the first train back southwards towards Kings Cross where I can change to the Piccadilly Line.
 
And sitting on the train I suddenly realise what I'm doing.
 
I've forgotten my purpose. I've practically ignored places I'm supposed to be exploring. I've very nearly been reduced to simply 'ticking the boxes' and completely missing the point of why I'm doing this. Ok, so some stations will have less to see or do around them than others - but what they do have should be given the breathing space to at least make an impression on me. And what about the people who live there? Maybe half an hour with a cup of tea in a greasy spoon café will furnish me with a wealth of anecdotes I might otherwise have missed.
 
I give myself a mental telling off, and, promising to keep on track (oh, shut up - I'm allowed a pun at such a revelatory moment) decide that, for now, Arnos Grove and Arsenal are just going to have to wait.